i managed to get a pro deal form right around the time that i got my tax return (which was really big) so i bought a full set of cams. i also have half a set of hexes. my big cams and hexs aren't much use on climbs that only take small gear. i don't think my rack is large, but i don't need to take all of it on every route.
Sand inhibits the production of toughtosterone, so get it out and send.
one of my good friends never uses a guide book. he just goes to the cliff, looks at whatever line looks coolest and tries it. he is a solid 12 climber so he feels that he can get himself out of any trouble he gets himself into. and he doesn't really give mush credence to grades anway.
so anti-climber, if you want to onsight stuff it is pretty simple, just go do it.