Nicoderm Beta

[One-Fall]

A friend and I got on Nicoderm last weekend. We were able to get though it, but couldn't find beta that was consistent with the grade. Anyone else think it was hard for the grade, or does my technique suck that bad?

By the way, anyone know for sure if the bomber mono was drilled?

And Buster, I thought it was a sweet route. Thanks for putting it up.

[Power2U]

I haven't sent the thing yet but did try it last summer and ugh it was hard. Good job on doing all the moves inthese conditions. I was too much of a whimp to stab at that mono... I would like to tickit off this fall though.

As for the two mono's (at least I remember there being two... first a right hand one then a left hand one) I would bet money that they were drilled.

Hope you send it... let me know.

Oh also... as for the grade it seems harder than 12b... I'll let you know after I send it...if I send it this Fall

[Buster]

I haven't sent the thing yet but did try it last summer and ugh it was hard. Good job on doing all the moves inthese conditions. I was too much of a whimp to stab at that mono... I would like to tickit off this fall though.

As for the two mono's (at least I remember there being two... first a right hand one then a left hand one) I would bet money that they were drilled.

Hope you send it... let me know.

Oh also... as for the grade it seems harder than 12b... I'll let you know after I send it...if I send it this Fall

How much money do you want to loose to me? Those things are all natural.
Off the highest left hand pocket on Nicorette reach way to the right and get the first of the monos. Pull over there and get your feet up and step up with your left foot into a 2 finger pocket pull hard and reach to the second mono. Move your feet up again and reach out right to a shallow side pull pocket and then start swimming up the side pulls to the top. The big move out right is the crux and unless you have the reach it is really hard/impossible. I never stuck a grade on it but I don't know of anyone that has onsited on the lead. Russ Clune busted it off first try with the beta and a top rope but he was fresh from drilled mono land, Kingston Quarry in NY.
Glad you all liked the route. It is the FA that I am most proud of @ The Red. Once I figured out how to do the moves I did it third try. It has claimed more than one career ending tendon injury so be carefull!

[Power2U]

I am glad to hear the pockets were not drilled, much more motivating... amazing how comfortablew and perfectly positioned and angled they are, but really the red is like that with a lot of holds.... how about that bowling ball rest hold on Stay the Hand at mid height for yor right hand? That thing fits my hand so well you'd thinkn I manufactured it

Buster,

Congrats on the FA. Why did I think I saw it in a guide book with Brian McCray as the FA...did he bolt it and you tick it, or did you drill the line too?

[One-Fall]

Thank you both for the beta. Buster, I am using the same beta as you, so I guess I need to just suck it up. P2U, we should get on it together this fall (you can hang the draws)

[ynot]

Heres the beta: left right left right hard move left right left right

[Wes]

Heres the beta: left right left right hard move left right left right

You know, I used to think that about sport climbing in the red as well. Then I got a little bit stronger, and started trying 5.12's and up, and there is rad movement that is anything but left-right-left. But of course, trad wankers that are to lazy to train will never know.

[J-Rock]

There is also some rad movement on some of those fine trad lines too!

[ynot]

I know that. That's why its funny.

[Wes]

J-Rock, True, I find that once you are doing mid 5.10's, the trad lines get pretty fun as well. Under that, and it is pretty much as left-right-left as easy sport routes.