Nicorette beta

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Jul 18, 2005 1:57 am

Got on Nicorette for the first time Friday...what a stellar line. Only problem..I didn't figure out good beta between bolt 2 and 3. at bolt 2, you have those two 2 finger pockets, and then this really sick looking sidepull/gaston about 2 feet up..out right is this mailbox slot, which once you get that, you can go casually to the jug below bolt 3....

any help appreciated....(I ended up making the long reach to the slot, skipping the sick hold, but couldn't seem to do that on redpoint.)

Post by **Spragwa** » Mon Jul 18, 2005 10:10 am

Won't beta lower the route grade for your send?

Post by **Crankmas** » Mon Jul 18, 2005 11:15 am

watch those who climb 5.12 and try to emulate them

Post by **rhunt** » Mon Jul 18, 2005 11:17 am

Post by **Meadows** » Mon Jul 18, 2005 3:11 pm

Pansy Pigsteak (how do you like that alliteration?), the beta is to do just as you were doing: stick clip and pull up.

Post by **SCIN** » Mon Jul 18, 2005 3:57 pm

Pigsteak, I avoid the initial pocket by using a small crimp. I liked that way better than using the pocket. I think it was a left hand crimp.

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Jul 18, 2005 4:20 pm

SCIN, thanks.
Meadows, thanks for adding to the grief.
Rhunt, wipe the smirk off your smiley.
Crankmas, the 5.12 climber belaying me was chicken of the route. How can I learn that way?
Sprag, this was in my sock feet, so the grade stands.

Post by **Ultra** » Mon Jul 18, 2005 4:26 pm

Wow. What a man.

Post by **rhunt** » Mon Jul 18, 2005 5:27 pm

Post by **Meadows** » Mon Jul 18, 2005 6:07 pm

Ultra wrote:Wow. What a man.

A man? Pigsteak is all woman (yes, they can climb too, Ultra).

Pigsteak, you go girl! So BAMF!!