Paradise Lost - No Hands?

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
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fiveten03
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Jun 29, 2005 12:14 am

Paradise Lost - No Hands?

Post by fiveten03 »

At the big jug halfway through Paradise Lost, if you hang your feet off the wall they fall about 2 inches above a large ledge. Where it's pretty easy to get a "no hands" rest before firing the top. I was curious if kenny gave it the 13b rating not using the ledge, and if he considers it off route since he put it up. Being only inches away for someone at 5'11'', i can't imagine that someone taller couldn't just stand on the ledge without any trouble. Either way it will go! Any comments or ideas are appreciated. Thanks
Devin
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Paul3eb
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Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2003 1:49 am

Post by Paul3eb »

if there's no tape on it, it's not in.
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins
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meetVA
Posts: 1883
Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2003 4:13 pm

Post by meetVA »

So are we suggesting a height dependent rating?

One for shorties and one for tall-ies?
I know that you believe that you understood what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant.
- Robert McCloskey

A computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me at kick boxing.
- Emo Philips
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pawilkes
Posts: 1570
Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2004 5:45 am

Post by pawilkes »

are you talking about between the third and fourth bolt on the arete? i was with kenny out there alot right after he sent it and most people were clipping the forth bolt and then going to the rest. i remember thinking you could climb down further to get a better rest if you really wanted to but kenny didn't think it was worth the effort
Sand inhibits the production of toughtosterone, so get it out and send.
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allah
Posts: 1443
Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 4:10 am

Post by allah »

the route is a jug hual, I should have just crow bared the jug rest off. HELL i think i might go ahead and do that. Bill Ramsey gave it the 13b rating and he didnt use that fucking ledge as a no hands infact maybe I should just m80 that bitch off. try the route with out the jug at the 3rd, I ended up doing the route first try once I used that damn hold. Just to let everyone know I have not rated anything at that cliff, I have been going by what everyone else says, cause I feel I have no business rating routes. good luck on that route, it is one of the best in my opininon and not because I equipped it either. peace homeys
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allah
Posts: 1443
Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 4:10 am

Post by allah »

oh yea, one more thing, if you think Paradise Lost is good and has good climbing, get on Dracula, it might not be as cool looking, but the climbing in my opinion is just as good if not better, with a cool run out with hard moves.
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J
Posts: 80
Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2003 3:59 am

Post by J »

they are both piles. the only decent route at that shitpile is lucifer, 2 bad somebody effed the bolt on that
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Spragwa
Posts: 3650
Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2003 4:05 pm

Post by Spragwa »

That's it smack the bee's nest. This cliff is one of the prettiest there are. Allah only bolted quality lines there too. He could have bolted a bunch of chossy crap but didn't. It's a great crag. (note that there is no comment on lucifer because I could never haul my ass up that thing)
Jesus only knows that she tries too hard. She's only trying to keep the sky from falling.

-Everlast
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Christian
Posts: 1722
Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2003 1:57 pm

Post by Christian »

aaaaahhh..... a climbing thread...
I try to be a good man but all that comes
of trying is I feel more guilty.
Ikkyu
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allah
Posts: 1443
Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 4:10 am

Post by allah »

HAHAHAHA J is scared of climbing now, he has quit to start up some gay wrestling shit, where he gets ring worm. So watch out ladies stay away from that scary little man :twisted:

And Sprag I LOVE YOU!!!!!
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