squeezindlemmon wrote:That's a great idea, Rick. Esp after seeing how that quicklink just popped right at the threads during testing!
If anyone is curious about that "rope" in the photo, no, it is not one of JJ's climbing ropes.
It is just ordinary clothesline used to keep the pulling chain from flying around when an anchor bolt breaks.
Rick
We cannot change the cards we are dealt, just how we play the hand. - Randy Pausch
None are so old as those who have outlived enthusiasm. - Henry David Thoreau
That is cool for sure. But, I usually replace things like that on the fly, and the odds of having something like that along are kinda small (none?). Probably not an issue for Muir, since you all are really doing great things with the anchors and with maintaining them, but for the rest of the red, the locktight might not be the best solution. I am still not sure how to get the one off of AWOL, since it might not be locktight, just rust or it is stuck.
weber wrote:
Wes wrote:If you ever want to replace/change the screwlinks and they have locktight on them, you would have to cut them off, which sounds fine in theory, but is much harder to deal with on the route. Because sooner or later, they will need to be replaced. Like the big 1/2 inch one on awol - I couldn't get it off, and now it is in the way of the new setup. The only think to do is to totally replace the anchor now, or haul a torch or something up there.
If red Loctite has been applied, the threads can be heated above 400 degrees F to break down the chemical bond. Then, they unthread fairly easily. I use a small butane torch with built-in piezo electric lighter. Weighs a few ounces -- small than a Red Bull can. You can get one at: http://www.micromark.com
A 3/8-inch quick link can be heated to 400 d in about 30 seconds. Sure beats sawing. Plus, the quick link, if it is in good shape, can be reused.
Wes wrote:That is cool for sure. But, I usually replace things like that on the fly, and the odds of having something like that along are kinda small (none?). Probably not an issue for Muir, since you all are really doing great things with the anchors and with maintaining them, but for the rest of the red, the locktight might not be the best solution. I am still not sure how to get the one off of AWOL, since it might not be locktight, just rust or it is stuck.
Good points.
There is another handy tool that might help. Dremel makes a battery powered rotary tool that is pretty lightweight and powerful. They also sell a fiber cutoff wheel for this tool. I used mine a couple weeks back to cut through a lock that I had lost the key for. I was impressed with how fast it cut through the lock hasp. Unlike a hacksaw, the fiber abrasive wheel will cut through hardened steel.
If you can catch me sometime at Muir, I'll loan it to you for that one on AWOL. Better yet, I can drop it off at RRO.
Rick
We cannot change the cards we are dealt, just how we play the hand. - Randy Pausch
None are so old as those who have outlived enthusiasm. - Henry David Thoreau
