Well, every climbing rope is, in theory, going to limit the max force to less then a factor two fall. Which, I think translates into around 10-15 Kn, maybe???
Wes
Falling down
Given the factors above the rope probably would not break and the impact force (~8kN depending on the make of rope) would be painful, but survivable.
Play around with the Petzl Fall Factor Simulator
http://www.petzl.com/petzl/publicActiv?id=GDEPAROI#
More rope = less impact b/c there is more material to absorb the force
I think Dude's odds are poor because in a 400ft fall there is alot that can go wrong. Most likely Dude will hit something mid-fall and get snuffed before the rope is able to do it's thing. The biggest area of concern is what is going on at the belay. The force would be enough to break most trad gear, but not enough to break a biner or a bolt. In anything but an ideal belay setup (belayer is tied to masterpoint of two equalized bomber bolts with dynamic rope, belay carabiner is clipped through both the tie-in loop and the belay loop, belayer is using a gri-gri and wearing gloves, and the rope is redirected through the masterpoint before going to the leader) the probability for failure is greatly increased. Dude's belayer could even be in worse shape then Dude himself - especially if the rope is not redirected!
Play around with the Petzl Fall Factor Simulator
http://www.petzl.com/petzl/publicActiv?id=GDEPAROI#
More rope = less impact b/c there is more material to absorb the force
I think Dude's odds are poor because in a 400ft fall there is alot that can go wrong. Most likely Dude will hit something mid-fall and get snuffed before the rope is able to do it's thing. The biggest area of concern is what is going on at the belay. The force would be enough to break most trad gear, but not enough to break a biner or a bolt. In anything but an ideal belay setup (belayer is tied to masterpoint of two equalized bomber bolts with dynamic rope, belay carabiner is clipped through both the tie-in loop and the belay loop, belayer is using a gri-gri and wearing gloves, and the rope is redirected through the masterpoint before going to the leader) the probability for failure is greatly increased. Dude's belayer could even be in worse shape then Dude himself - especially if the rope is not redirected!
Don't listen to anything I say.The maximum allowable impact for a UIAA lead rope is 12kN.
Most ropes are in the 8kN range.
Calculating the actual impact of the climber is very difficult b/c there are so many factors involved...type of belay system, friction in the sytem from rope drag, impact is absorbed at the knot, the climbers body, converted into the swing component of the fall. But it won't exceed the maximum impact of whatever rope the climber is using.
Most ropes are in the 8kN range.
Calculating the actual impact of the climber is very difficult b/c there are so many factors involved...type of belay system, friction in the sytem from rope drag, impact is absorbed at the knot, the climbers body, converted into the swing component of the fall. But it won't exceed the maximum impact of whatever rope the climber is using.
I would give Dude pretty good odds, as long as he was on a nice steep route. Hell, it might even be fun to take a 400 foot fall. Kinda like rope jumping.
Anyone ever set up a jump? Just thinking it might be fun to set up a 100+ ft jump in the red sometime....
Wes
Anyone ever set up a jump? Just thinking it might be fun to set up a 100+ ft jump in the red sometime....
Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"
Po, the kung fu panda
Po, the kung fu panda
cool stuff. i forgot about petzl's fall simulator.
so it sounds like as long as the crux pitch on 'imminent death' is steep and clear of obstacles, then dude is gonna get back up and finish the pitch before dark. awesome. 8kn doesn't sound so bad. ok, wait, that's 1760lbs of force. that sounds like alot. thanks for the input y'all.
so it sounds like as long as the crux pitch on 'imminent death' is steep and clear of obstacles, then dude is gonna get back up and finish the pitch before dark. awesome. 8kn doesn't sound so bad. ok, wait, that's 1760lbs of force. that sounds like alot. thanks for the input y'all.
weather is occurring.
i've not set up any full free fall type of jumps. i have set up a number of good pendulum type falls. we did one on I-26 one time from the bridge over the green river. we were jumping even with our anchor with nearly 60m of rope out.
alas, the green river bridge is too far away now for quick thrills. i'm down for any kind of roped shenanigans we can come up with. you wanna go play on highbridge sometime wes?
alas, the green river bridge is too far away now for quick thrills. i'm down for any kind of roped shenanigans we can come up with. you wanna go play on highbridge sometime wes?
weather is occurring.
Yeah, 34.3m/s (77Mph - make sure you are keeping the units clear. Most common mistake doing physics/statics, dynamics, etc. related problem is confusing the units. m/s=meters/second m/h=meters/hour, Mph=Miles/hour....only clarifying for hypothetical plummet of Dude.
Remember, though, that 120m is not 300', it's nearly 400' (393.7'), you're talking 33% greater distance travelled. And, again, everything else being equal, the mass of Dude and his gear plays the seconds biggest role in the equation. F=Ma works for stationary (static) objects, but determining the final "impact" load requires formulas I do not have available persently. I design strength equipment for a living, not figure how far Dude, or Dudette can fall uninterrupted before snapping his/her rope or yanking a bolt out of a wall.
I'll rummage around my books tonight and see what I can find, though; it's all a matter of potential and kinetic energy. Besides, what's Dude doing climbing that high with ropes, anyway? REAL climbers do it to hit the top w/o failure, sans anything but a source of music, and no ugly white chalk to deface the pristine landscape, either (bunch of filthy white marks all over beautiful scenery, JEEZ 
).
Remember, though, that 120m is not 300', it's nearly 400' (393.7'), you're talking 33% greater distance travelled. And, again, everything else being equal, the mass of Dude and his gear plays the seconds biggest role in the equation. F=Ma works for stationary (static) objects, but determining the final "impact" load requires formulas I do not have available persently. I design strength equipment for a living, not figure how far Dude, or Dudette can fall uninterrupted before snapping his/her rope or yanking a bolt out of a wall.
I'll rummage around my books tonight and see what I can find, though; it's all a matter of potential and kinetic energy. Besides, what's Dude doing climbing that high with ropes, anyway? REAL climbers do it to hit the top w/o failure, sans anything but a source of music, and no ugly white chalk to deface the pristine landscape, either (bunch of filthy white marks all over beautiful scenery, JEEZ )."I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself."
D. H. Lawrence
D. H. Lawrence
Well, yeah, that Petzl site looks pretty good. I didn't look ahead to that, I could have saved myself an entire posting. Hmm, need to read all posts before replying myself. Sorry for wasting the bandwidth. 
"I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself."
D. H. Lawrence
D. H. Lawrence