Lowering from awol

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KD
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 1:21 am

Lowering from awol

Post by KD »

I was on awol at roadside crag friday and noticed that the screw link at the anchors is becoming badly worn. at present it appeared to be about one-third of the way worn through. this must be from people toproping through it or excessive lowering - or both. Please be careful cleaning it and rap down instead of lowering. I'd be glad to put a donation in the team suck jar at rro to fund a new link - if that's who takes care of roadside.
Wes
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Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

Step one: Go to Lowe's/home depot, etc. Buy new quicklink.
Step two: Climb awol. carrying new quicklink and adj. wrench.
Step three: Replace old quicklink with new one.

Repeat on whatever climbs need new quicklinks. Not rocket science at all.

PS, I almost never rap a route unless I think my rope will get messed up by lowering.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
KD
Posts: 3155
Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 1:21 am

Post by KD »

Thanks Wes, Wasn't sure of the route maintainence protocol and didn't know if it was an ordinary hardware store kind or not - didn't want to mess it up. I'd be glad to do it but i'll be out west for a week or so. I'll check it out when i get back.
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

I keep a couple quick links and rap rings and a small wrench in my pack, just in case. Anyone who climbs more then a couple times a month should do the same.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
the lurkist
Posts: 2240
Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm

Post by the lurkist »

There is a benefit to Metolius Rap Hangers. Two horizontally placed Hangers discourage short sighted neophyte climbers who don't know better from top roping.
(I say this mostly tongue in cheek. I really don't like parallel placed anchors for many reason, mostly as Wes pointed out- they are a patented rope twisting machine.)
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
Smedley
Posts: 40
Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 5:36 pm

Post by Smedley »

Step one: Get some fat-ass, who's ego matches his large ass, to repeatedly lower through anchors.
Step two: Let that same fat-ass, who thinks his something because he's replaced a few anchors to keep replacing all the anchors that every other fat-ass wears out.
Step three: Teach this to all new climbers who never give any thought to the effort involved in maintaining or bolting a route.
Step five: Replace the anchors annually as opposed to every five to 10 years (maybe 20).
Step four: Don't be a lazy fat-ass.
Master-Baiter
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

Smedley wrote:Step one: Get some fat-ass, who's ego matches his large ass, to repeatedly lower through anchors.
Step two: Let that same fat-ass, who thinks his something because he's replaced a few anchors to keep replacing all the anchors that every other fat-ass wears out.
Step three: Teach this to all new climbers who never give any thought to the effort involved in maintaining or bolting a route.
Step five: Replace the anchors annually as opposed to every five to 10 years (maybe 20).
Step four: Don't be a lazy fat-ass.
Don't they teach you that five comes after four up there in yankee land?
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
Meadows
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Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 4:03 pm

Post by Meadows »

**Wes is part Yankee**
Smedley
Posts: 40
Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 5:36 pm

Post by Smedley »

I guess 'Step Four' could follow any of the OBVIOUS no-no's when it comes to good route etiquette. I'm sure you get my point fat-boy.
Master-Baiter
Wes
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Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

Yea, because rapping is oh-so-much-less wear on the anchors. Or not? Fuck if I care. I mostly lower. Sometimes I rappel. I replace some anchors, don't replace others. Big deal.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
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