Gym Climbers

Discussions full of RAGE!

Should gym climbers be considered real rock climbers?

Yes
13
19%
Maybe
14
20%
No
23
33%
Hell no!
19
28%
 
Total votes: 69

J-Rock
Posts: 1936
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 9:30 pm

Post by J-Rock »

Just an observation... What amazes me about these kids learning to climb in the gym is how fast they learn and improve. It seems like quite a few of them can climb solid 5.12 within their first year, but take some of them outside and put them on a crack (or a reachy route) and they will be temporarily confused. Then I tell them, "Yeah, now that's REAL rock climbing!" They can't get enough of it... most of them are very capable of skipping the entry level grades and going straight to the harder stuff, but many of them still believe they are in the gym and that the outdoors should be clean and tamed instead of dirty and wild.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder
marathonmedic
Posts: 1557
Joined: Fri Feb 20, 2004 3:01 am

Post by marathonmedic »

Let's not forget that there really aren't many places for a n00b to climb outdoors at the Red unless they're doing trad. There are only 33 sport routes listed under 5.9 and 7 of them are in closed crags. Until you learn to climb, or at least claw, your way up a 10 or higher there really isn't that much out there to get on, especially when groups of n00bs can fill those climbs for an entire day 10 min after they get there.
Ticking is gym climbing outdoors.
J-Rock
Posts: 1936
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 9:30 pm

Post by J-Rock »

Well, we are constantly searching for more sport routes under 5.9.... hopefully we will keep finding them and noobs will have a safe place to learn the ropes on real rock. I've discovered that it 's MUCH harder to find a sub 5.9 sport route at the Red than it is to find a 5.12+ and over. But, we are still looking...
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder
marathonmedic
Posts: 1557
Joined: Fri Feb 20, 2004 3:01 am

Post by marathonmedic »

Yeah, erosion has a way of making a 5.6 into a 5.13 after a while. It's tough to grab those easy ones before they melt away.
Ticking is gym climbing outdoors.
Christian
Posts: 1722
Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2003 1:57 pm

Post by Christian »

I admit it. I am not a rock climber. I won't live long enough to climb 5.12.
As my 15 year old son likes to remind me: "Dad. Your climbing knowledge far exceeds yor climbing ability or experience."
"thank you son."
I try to be a good man but all that comes
of trying is I feel more guilty.
Ikkyu
User avatar
pigsteak
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Post by pigsteak »

christian..how old are you? climbing 5.12 is not that hard, if a person is in good shape, AND really wants it. I am closing in on 40, and would never dream of using my age to keep me down.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

Sunshine and Snake are older then 50, and both climb 5.12 all the time.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
User avatar
pigsteak
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Post by pigsteak »

more inspiration for those of us who see it coming!!!! nice job guys...way to crank.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
squeezindlemmon
Posts: 1452
Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2004 7:02 pm

Post by squeezindlemmon »

Add tbone to that list, so ya see... it's VERY possible! :D
Emancipate yourself from mental slavery. None but ourselves can free our mind. ~Bob Marley
diggum
Posts: 1552
Joined: Sun Oct 03, 2004 3:13 pm

Post by diggum »

Plus...ya know...they look good doin it & THAT is what really matters. :mrgreen:
Holding onto anger is like grasping a hot coal with the intent of throwing it at someone else; you are the one who gets burned. - Buddha
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