the burrito??
-
- Posts: 286
- Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2004 7:01 pm
agreed. just remember that things break and that the unexpected can happen.pawilkes wrote:J-Rock, while the idea is good in principle keeping weight on the feet is not always the best idea on chossy rock. i broke my knee when a foot foot chip ble on me. probably not a big deal on most cleaned routes in the red though
i took a suprise whipper on Buddha Hole a few years ago from the section above the 2nd hueco because the route hadn't seen much traffic, yet (back when Solar Collector was by word of mouth). weighted my feet and it snapped off.
Most of the time when I break a foothold I still manage to stay on the rock, but when I break a handhold I often fall off. Of course, there are exceptions to everything. The best thing would be to be alert at all times, and like somebody else said, "Expect the unexpected."
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."
--A Navaho elder
--A Navaho elder
-
- Posts: 85
- Joined: Mon Sep 08, 2003 10:54 pm
Buritto is harder than it was. I got on it Sunday. It's not that it's an 11 now or anything, but you now use a hold on the left and work out onto the other face. That hold is a must use, but it's hard to get moved over and match on that hold while your feet are trying to cut out from under you. That's a big difference since the old hold was a two handed jug. I thought I was going to take a nasty whipper, but I was fortunate enough to call upon my levitation skills long enough to make the clip and the move afterwards. Whew.
I thought I had finally found my first 5.6 sport route. It had one 5.8 move and the rest of it felt like 5.2 so I thought it would average out to 5.6. Anyway, I climbed it, bolted it, cleaned it and then went to climb it again... Unfortunately there was only one hand hold for the crux (a good edge) and it snapped off in my hand. The move is now much harder... Damn, I guess I need to keep looking.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."
--A Navaho elder
--A Navaho elder