Looking for beta
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squeezindlemmon
- Posts: 1452
- Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2004 7:02 pm
You are probably going to have to break down and buy the guidebook. Its a little tricky to find your way around the crag - like finding the broadway ledge "trail". Here is a link to another area:
http://www.nelsonrocks.org/
This is Nelson Rocks Preserve. Stu bought this land when it went up for sale. There is an online guidebook to Nelson, but I think you have to log in to access it. There is a ~10 pitch 5.7 that traverses the east face of the northwest fin. Never did it, supposed to be a blast. Lots of sport routes, some bitchin trad lines (Cresendo, 5.10, Stone Gallows, 5.10), less rock fall/traffic relative to Seneca, close to Seneca (~10 miles south). Good place to spend a day or a month.
The mack-daddy crag in the area is Champe Rocks. But you probably don't want to go there on your first trip - it involves a river crossing, maybe some stealth trespassing, to get to a crag with no guidebook. 3 and 4 pitch routes, longest routes in WV, no crowds. This one is about 7 miles N of Seneca; you can't see the bitchin west face of the southeast fin from the road. Have a good trip.
Another must-do classic sport route at Seneca is Bonsai - 5.12. Feels like you're in a hall of mirrors when you're at the crux. Lots of fun, harder routes that aren't crowded on the west face of north peak. Mad Men only, Malevolence, Bonsai etc.
http://www.nelsonrocks.org/
This is Nelson Rocks Preserve. Stu bought this land when it went up for sale. There is an online guidebook to Nelson, but I think you have to log in to access it. There is a ~10 pitch 5.7 that traverses the east face of the northwest fin. Never did it, supposed to be a blast. Lots of sport routes, some bitchin trad lines (Cresendo, 5.10, Stone Gallows, 5.10), less rock fall/traffic relative to Seneca, close to Seneca (~10 miles south). Good place to spend a day or a month.
The mack-daddy crag in the area is Champe Rocks. But you probably don't want to go there on your first trip - it involves a river crossing, maybe some stealth trespassing, to get to a crag with no guidebook. 3 and 4 pitch routes, longest routes in WV, no crowds. This one is about 7 miles N of Seneca; you can't see the bitchin west face of the southeast fin from the road. Have a good trip.
Another must-do classic sport route at Seneca is Bonsai - 5.12. Feels like you're in a hall of mirrors when you're at the crux. Lots of fun, harder routes that aren't crowded on the west face of north peak. Mad Men only, Malevolence, Bonsai etc.
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captain static
- Posts: 2438
- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm
My brother and I did that route in December once in mountaineering boots. We both got our boots temporarily stuck in the crack. By the time we got to the belay it had started snowing. It was a real trip crawling along the fin to the summit looking down at snowflakes shooting up the West Face.J-Rock wrote:Dude, we did that same link up a couple years ago and it was really cool. I definitely recommend "Gunsight to South Peak" too, it is one of my favorites.
My son calls me dude all the time too
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh