best boulder problem in the Red

Post by **Wes** » Fri May 20, 2005 7:39 pm

gneiss, Looks like beacon hights for us for a little bit Saturday morning, then G'Mom. What time you all think you will get there? And, where do you think you might end up once there?

Post by **RRO** » Fri May 20, 2005 11:26 pm

its not gonna be harder than 5/6 or so, the commitment and pain factor cannot be put into #'s. the face was really wet and manky today. each individual move is not that bad, linking it will be a test of pain tolerance and mental toughness. what day you rolling out with me wes ?

Post by **mantra51** » Sat May 21, 2005 1:24 am

so b2- ? or 5 spot minus. haha

Post by **SCIN** » Sat May 21, 2005 2:21 am

RRO wrote:its not gonna be harder than 5/6 or so, the commitment and pain factor cannot be put into #'s. the face was really wet and manky today. each individual move is not that bad, linking it will be a test of pain tolerance and mental toughness. what day you rolling out with me wes ?

So, you went to check it out? You gonna bag it man?

Post by **RRO** » Sat May 21, 2005 11:43 am

yeah we went up yesterday. fell off it a good 20 or so times. its gonna be exciting at the top. in time im sure it will go down. just dont know when i will feel like thrashing up there again.

Post by **Ascentionist** » Sun May 22, 2005 11:32 am

I told you not to tell anyone, now every bouldering gumby in the east is going to be getting their greasy paws on it.

I'll have to go do it for you this morning before some foreigner can nab it.

Post by **512OW** » Sun May 22, 2005 3:49 pm

Wow, this is a cool thread. A secret boulder problem in the Red that everyone has known about for years.

Now, if its so painful, and such a bushwhack to get there, what exactly qualifies it as the best boulder problem in the Red as opposed to a classic like The Pearl??

Post by **Ascentionist** » Sun May 22, 2005 7:15 pm

Its tall, 20 feet. Slightly overhung. OK, not so slightly.

Smooth face, consistent angle without any major features other than a single large hueco near the top and a line of small shallow huecos that you connect to make the ascent.

The bushwhack isn't too terrible. At least as far as I'm concerned.

Post by **512OW** » Sun May 22, 2005 8:00 pm

Yeah, I know how it looks....I saw it years ago. You forgot the scary topout.

So now why does that make it the best boulder problem in the Red?

Post by **RRO** » Sun May 22, 2005 8:44 pm

Saying its the best is stretching it quite a bit, saying its pretty damn cool is more like it. Who cares about the FA, just a fun scary line to work while I wait on boats. Its bouldering in the Red, you work with what ya got.