Fear of falling

Post by **kneebar** » Thu May 19, 2005 3:26 pm

Anyone had a real fear of taking falls and gotten over it? I am sure most of you had a little apprehension on your first couple of falls (I hope). I'm mostly looking for advice from people that have had this fear for years, never been comfortable with falling and figured out a way to overcome it. But I'll take anyones sugestion. I have been climbing for well over a decade and probably taken 20 falls and was never damaged by it! I know it affects my climbing in not only the grade but also more importantly the enjoyment of the climb. I find myself going home after a weekend of climbing with the only negative aspect being the inability to take a clean fall. It has been suggested to me to take a class with Arno Illgner to deal with it but would like to get a few opinions and constructive comments. What do you think, do I need professional help? (Just for this issue that is

).

I look at climbers like Paul and Yas in utter disbelief in there casual way of falling.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Thu May 19, 2005 3:29 pm

Yeah, but our lack of fear of falling keeps us from onsighting BADASS 5.11 TRAD LINES like Big Baby!! You're so BAMF, kneebar. So dreamy. Don't ever change.

Post by **Wes** » Thu May 19, 2005 3:30 pm

I had a really bad fear of falling at the chains on sport routes, mostly in the red. Because I would be afraid of getting pumped out and not being able to clip. So, what I would do would be to get to the chains, clip in. Get a quick rest, then unclip, let my feet dangle, and let go. Once I did that a few times, the fear of falling going to the chains was gone, because I *knew* I was going to take the fall anyway.

Wes

Post by **Huggybone** » Thu May 19, 2005 3:53 pm

I used to be so scared I would scream when I fell. Solution: fall more.

Post by **Sunshine** » Thu May 19, 2005 4:00 pm

You must be totally sure that your belayer knows how to give a soft catch. Don't jump or push off when you take practice falls. Think dropping not jumping. When I teach how to do soft catches I like to take the falls from gently overhanging rock.

Post by **Jeff** » Thu May 19, 2005 4:03 pm

Take more falls, start out with short ones and work towards loner ones.
Arno will tell you the same.
It really helped me.

Post by **diggum** » Thu May 19, 2005 4:30 pm

Ain't nothin wrong with screaming on a lead fall.

Post by **kneebar** » Thu May 19, 2005 5:50 pm

Thanks for the sugestions, I could be the poster child of fear

I am begining to think its like a phobia, there is no logical reason for the fear. Most of the time at the red its a sport route. I look down, bolts a little below my feet, yes its nice and overhanging, no I'm not going to hit anything, no I'm not going to get my leg caught in the rope, I trust my belayer, I trust the equipment, just let go, easy right. I think Jeff might be right, start out small and work my way up to a big whipper! Baby steps! As far as screaming, I usually have my mouth open but nothing comes out.

I'm going to try to climb with people that are comfortable with falling, a little peer pressure couldn't hurt! Could be a long summer.

Post by **kneebar** » Thu May 19, 2005 5:53 pm

Yasmeen, I'm dreamy

8)

Post by **Wes** » Thu May 19, 2005 5:55 pm

Climbing with people who fall is good. It is great when you get into a crew that doesn't TR much. Then you just take the whip from the chains, pull the rope and repeat for each person. Maybe last one cleans on tr or just leave the draws up for a cool down pitch at the end of the day. It didn't happen overnight (for me) but, I have gotten pretty used to falling now.