Missing hanger on maypop and the po po on the prowl

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

BTW, Too Many Puppies is a super cool route. Very fun, and with new bolts, reasonably safe. The move past the last bolt is spicy!
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
t bone
Posts: 455
Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 10:56 pm

Post by t bone »

The hanger, chain and quicklink from maypop is at Miguels. Ask Dario for it, someone dropped it off there.
Caspian
Posts: 348
Joined: Mon May 05, 2003 9:28 pm

Post by Caspian »

the new bolts are reasonably safe?
"how ironic....now he's blind after a life of enjoying being able to see."~Homer
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

Caspian wrote:the new bolts are reasonably safe?
Aren't they all? Guess, what I mean is, the bolts are good, and the falls mostly clean. Unless you backflip off the last move, like I almost did. "Emergency power to the left hand!!"
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
Caspian
Posts: 348
Joined: Mon May 05, 2003 9:28 pm

Post by Caspian »

Wes wrote:
Caspian wrote:the new bolts are reasonably safe?
Aren't they all? Guess, what I mean is, the bolts are good, and the falls mostly clean. Unless you backflip off the last move, like I almost did. "Emergency power to the left hand!!"
right on
"how ironic....now he's blind after a life of enjoying being able to see."~Homer
marathonmedic
Posts: 1557
Joined: Fri Feb 20, 2004 3:01 am

Post by marathonmedic »

Hey, a back clip is better than a blown clip. You can always fix it later.
Ticking is gym climbing outdoors.
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

marathonmedic wrote:Hey, a back clip is better than a blown clip. You can always fix it later.
Nope, you actually skip the clip, then try not to back flip on the next couple moves, then you can reach down and make the clip, or just make another couple easy moves and clip the chains.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
Stewy911
Posts: 649
Joined: Tue Feb 04, 2003 2:27 am

Post by Stewy911 »

so wes u didnt try clipping the last bolt off that nasty right hand crimp, did u think that was the crux? i guess it makes sense to pull through it and get the decent hold to clip. ur not far at all above the second to last bolt and even if u went to the anchors and bit it without clipping the last it would be a clean fall.
Who Me? I gotta hitch hike god damn 18 miles to get a god damn beer......that's bullshit.
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

First time I tried to clip from the nasty crimp, and had to grab the draw. 2nd time I skipped the clip and just went from the good left hand to the hold under the roof with my right (near backflip 1) then fell into the little hold on the areate with my left (near back flip 2). And you are safe if you skip the last bolt, but it is way exciting to be all perched on the areate, looking at the uncliped draw, then throwing for a hold. Red point crux, but I think the move after the 2nd bolt were a bit harder. I killer route though. I guess Ball Scratcher is next on the scary arete tick list...
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
Stewy911
Posts: 649
Joined: Tue Feb 04, 2003 2:27 am

Post by Stewy911 »

yea definately airy and scary but a classic. Did terry kep the bolts pretty much in the same spots or did he move some or add any etc? Good send on that man. I always though that was hard for the grade maybe im wrong.
Who Me? I gotta hitch hike god damn 18 miles to get a god damn beer......that's bullshit.
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