The Star ratings

Post by **J-Rock** » Fri May 13, 2005 3:24 am

This is probably because many of the better routes will most often be the first ones picked out when a new area is developed.

Post by **allah** » Fri May 13, 2005 4:41 am

SCIN wrote:This is the Red River Gorge and it ranks as one of the top sport climbing destinations in the world. Just as almost every crack at Indian Creek, UT is pristine, so are the sport lines at the Red.

Shit a one start route in indian creek would be 5 stars in the red. B3 and Inhibitor would prob ably only get 2 stars in the Creek. Would you all agree or disagree? (only answer if you have been to the creek you wankers_)

Post by **J-Rock** » Fri May 13, 2005 4:42 am

Allah has a good point there.

Post by **Wes** » Fri May 13, 2005 4:43 am

Indian creek is cool, but not much variation. I would much rather have the trad at the red as my home crag then the creek.

Post by **allah** » Fri May 13, 2005 12:55 pm

wes=crack smoker

Post by **Wes** » Fri May 13, 2005 12:59 pm

Man, as hard as it seems to believe, perfect splitters get boring after a while. Just think how boring a 5.11 route would be in the red if it had 90 feet of the excat same hold. Like climbing a ladder, only at the creek you are just climbing a hand jam ladder. And yes, I know there are more varried routes out there, I just like the varity of the red for a home base. The creek is killer for a week or so at a time.

Post by **J-Rock** » Fri May 13, 2005 1:03 pm

Anybody seen the clmbing video "Return to Sender"? There is a spectacular section that features Indian Creek. It's worth checking out if you've ever climbed there.

Post by **allah** » Fri May 13, 2005 1:15 pm

The whole time I was there I think i only did one perfect splitter, "super Crack", oh and toproped Generic crack, but those were the only perfect splitter cracks i got on. Everything else was really varied i thought

Post by **kneebar** » Fri May 13, 2005 2:30 pm

Not to derail the thread but what the hell. I've spent well over a month at Indian Creek each spring for the last 7 years. I don't get get bored at all there. So in my opinion I see it no different then the red (in a non boring way) other then the weather is much better in the desert! Of course the wide open vista's and clean dry air at the creek sucks.

I'm not cracking on the red in any way, the red's stellar just a different type of climbing.

Perhaps if I could send all the routes at the creek without breaking a sweat I'd get bored (never gonna happen). Just compare it this way...Perfect handcrack=bomber jug, gets a little boring after a while perhaps for some, go narrower in width or wider and things begin to change just like the size of the holds at the red. I'd say the biggest difference would be the route finding! Gotta say its pretty easy at the Creek

Wes, you should get on Brother From Another Planet or Death of a Cowboy, or even Slot Machine 3 totally different climbs compare those to Super Crack, I'm guessing you wouldn't get bored!

Post by **Bashie** » Fri May 13, 2005 3:01 pm

Yeah, there are an aweful lot of stars on the new routes. There is probably a bias from the first ascentionists. In general, I've found that you can subtract one star from a route if the guide book author is the first ascentionist. We need participation in the on-line guidebook. Cast your votes.
Its hard to compare Red River cracks and face routes. There are a few bitchin cracks around here, but not many that would get five stars on a cosmic scale. Blues-Riff in Tuolmne Meadows comes to mind, and Equinox in Yosemite Valley. Maybe the best cracks in the universe should get six stars.
I really agree with SCIN, the unique face climbing is what makes the Red Rock. Spain and France have boat-loads of limestone, and the classic routes have holds that get greasy with time. It's the overhanging jug-hauls that bring in the buckeyes, hoosiers, euros, etc. We really have five-star routes here. Wish it was about 1000 feet taller, but wish in one hand, crap in the other, and see which gets full first.