New route @ Torrent

Post by **Wes** » Wed May 11, 2005 6:09 pm

Sunshine, Are you trying to make up for the loss of the hyper classic route, Shaggy? Restore order and Balance to the climbing world or something?

Post by **Steve** » Thu May 12, 2005 1:08 am

Mmmmmmmm Shaggy...

Post by **Saxman** » Thu May 12, 2005 2:13 am

Just buy the nylon bristle attachment for your cordless drill. Works much faster for the stuff it can get to. A wire brush would be a bad option here.

Post by **Danny** » Thu May 12, 2005 2:27 am

Cool. I like dirty routes; especially if they are smelly.

Post by **Joe Finney** » Thu May 12, 2005 3:01 am

I think its pretty fuckin lame if you put a route up and dont clean it. Just give me the bolts and hangers for some route.

Post by **young'n climber** » Thu May 12, 2005 3:07 am

Sunshine will spank you silly son

Post by **J-Rock** » Thu May 12, 2005 3:23 am

We have some new friends from Ohio (Mark and Jenny) who have been helping us clean routes recently. I am extremely thankful for all of their hard work and tireless efforts in scrubbing many new climbs. Last weekend I picked out a route between "Moots Madness" and "Shock and Awe". J.J. and I rappeled down and discovered that the cliff was 135 feet tall. We placed anchors about 95 ft up and then climbed the route. It was a super sweet long 5.10 (although Smedley would probably call it a 5.9). We named it "Pre-emptive Strike".

Anyway, J.J. provided half of the bolts and I provided half of the bolts. It was 11 bolts long. We each climbed it and marked bolt placements, then he bolted half of the route and I bolted half of the route. Then Mark and Jenny began the arduous task of scrubbing and cleaning the route. Later we were deciding who would redpoint the route (neither one of us really cared since it doesn't matter to us who does the FA... we just enjoy putting up routes).

Then it occurred to us that we should let Mark and Jenny do the FFA as a thank you for all of the help. We truly appreciate it. Especially since it takes more time to clean most routes then it does to actually climb them and bolt them.

Anyway, you guys are awesome and truly deserve the FFA.

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu May 12, 2005 3:31 am

in KY, what is the difference between FA and FFA? If I hangdog up a route on toprope, do I get the FA? And then someone else comes along and leads it, they get the FFA?

If I lead it first, then I get the FFA and FA, which would be the same thing,right? If it is the same thing, what do I call it, "FAFFA"?

If no one really cares , can I do the FFA?

Post by **J-Rock** » Thu May 12, 2005 3:35 am

Sure, come and scrub a few routes with us.

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu May 12, 2005 1:30 pm

cool..but, seriously, did I have the FA and FFA thing down? that has always puzzled me.