Number of pitches
10 was always my standard goal before we started bolting. Now we usually only climb 4 or 5 routes a day (sometimes more/sometimes less). We often bolt 1-3 routes in a day and sometimes climb 2 or 3 others. Many times we might climb several different variations of a route before deciding where to place the bolts.
Since I used to live in northwest Indiana I would often go to Devil's Lake in Wisconsin on the weekends to climb on the red quartzite. One day I was all alone so I brought my crashpad, shoes, harness, and a rope. I set up a toprope on a popular climb and walked along the cliff asking people if I could climb whatever route they had a rope on at the time and telling them that they could go climb on my rope that was already set up. I did 27 different routes that day and bouldered quite a bit too. Of course that was back when I was training regularly (eating well, stretching daily, not drinking, etc. and climbing really well). I flashed all of them except for a 5.12b that took me 2 tries. I ended up completing more than 400 routes there in less than 4 years.
As for bouldering I usually try to climb at least 20-30 different problems in a typical day (the majority being V4 and under) with a few V5s, V6s, and an occassional V7. One time at the Happys outside of Bishop I completed 69 different problems on a VB circuit for a rest day. The next day I needed another rest day so I spent the day scrambling around Tuolumne Meadows.
Since I used to live in northwest Indiana I would often go to Devil's Lake in Wisconsin on the weekends to climb on the red quartzite. One day I was all alone so I brought my crashpad, shoes, harness, and a rope. I set up a toprope on a popular climb and walked along the cliff asking people if I could climb whatever route they had a rope on at the time and telling them that they could go climb on my rope that was already set up. I did 27 different routes that day and bouldered quite a bit too. Of course that was back when I was training regularly (eating well, stretching daily, not drinking, etc. and climbing really well). I flashed all of them except for a 5.12b that took me 2 tries. I ended up completing more than 400 routes there in less than 4 years.
As for bouldering I usually try to climb at least 20-30 different problems in a typical day (the majority being V4 and under) with a few V5s, V6s, and an occassional V7. One time at the Happys outside of Bishop I completed 69 different problems on a VB circuit for a rest day. The next day I needed another rest day so I spent the day scrambling around Tuolumne Meadows.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."
--A Navaho elder
--A Navaho elder
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Ascentionist
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Don McGlone
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