Stop me if you've heard this one, I need 12a suggestions.

Post by **pawilkes** » Thu May 05, 2005 1:26 pm

i don't agree with what wes is saying about "pading your tick list". i guess it depends on mantality and what you're trying to do. i have a couple of 12s under my belt (albeit some of the softest 12s in the red) but all i want to do is climb 11's. there are so many routes out there that i can do that i'd rather get them in a couple tries or go for the onsight rather than work them day after day. im not trying to say one method is right and ones wrong, i am just saying there are other ways that people go about their climbing goals.

Post by **J-Rock** » Thu May 05, 2005 1:39 pm

I feel the same way. I'd rather onsight 5 good 5.11's then work and redpoint one hard 5.12, but that's just me. I do admire it when people project and work routes, it's just not my style though.

Post by **Wes** » Thu May 05, 2005 2:24 pm

I still do plenty of 5.11 onsighting as well. They are not mutually exclusive and just because you have a project, doesn't mean you have to go there every day. I feel that you should be trying routes 2 or so grades harder then what you are currently sending. Just for training.

Post by **Sco Bro** » Thu May 05, 2005 2:27 pm

I've never been one to work a route. I'll give it a couple tries, if it doesn't go then I move on to something else that looks fun. I'll come back later (whether that's weeks or months later) and, generally, the routes doable. Wes, I have no doubt that you have to work to climb at the grades you’re putting up.

I'm just looking for some climbs that I might be able to do, whether that's now or down the road.

Post by **Steve** » Thu May 05, 2005 3:46 pm

Hardcore Jollies at FRC?

Post by **Wes** » Fri May 06, 2005 12:21 am

I guess my climbing style is to get on things that are to hard for me all the time. Even if it means bolt to bolt, dogging, falling, and/or breaking out the stick clip. Just getting on harder stuff (whatever that might be for you) will make you a better climber, assuming you have a good base already. I got on a route today way over my head, had to batman past the first two bolts, and stickclip the third while hanging on the 2nd. But the rest of the route was super cool, and I got just a little bit better because of it. I think it is from bouldering so much in areas that might not have ratings - just jumping on whatever looks cool. And even if it does have ratings, you don't loose anything but skin by trying something that is hard.

Post by **J-Rock** » Fri May 06, 2005 1:35 am

I think I might keep trying Tim's "Diet of Hardmen" a 100' 5.12+/13- bridge traverse route. I don't know how hard it really is, but I feel confident that I will be able to someday link it all together if I try it once a week for a few weeks or more. (It might be my first "project" route). It was really cool watching Karla cruise through some of the V6 sections on her first attempt last night and watching t bone climb through them like it was a 5.9. I'm looking forward to trying it again next week... My fingers are still sore today. Those are some sick slopey crimps and very technical moves! It seems hard, but doable to link it.

When I first started training on those real rock technical glue-ups I thought that the 100 ft 5.11 crimpy warm-up was challenging. Now I can do laps on it and I go at least 200 ft just to warm up! Occassionally I find a few boulder problems in the middle of it to keep it interesting... I never knew bridge climbing could be so much fun or so addictive. I look forward to it each week.