Climbing photo thread, volume 1
Yeah, I think chalk on the holds definitely not the same things as tick marks. Tick marks are like a crutch (or aid) and it takes away from much of the experience for the next climber. It makes it feel more like a gym route with colored tape. I don't want to know where all of the sweet spots are on my onsight attempt. It will ruin the experience by dumbing down the route and eliminating the searching. Of course a route will feel much easier after it has been "wired" and tick marked. The chalk on the holds doesn't always show the "sweet spot" and it is not always obvious from below. Personally I think it is much more fun to find the good holds for myself (on the first go)... I guess I just have different ethical standards.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."
--A Navaho elder
--A Navaho elder
Well, since Pigsteak is not here, then I will make a new ruling... I think that if you tick mark a route then you should automatically lower the difficulty by at least one letter grade since finding all of the right holds (on your first attempt) is part of it. 
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."
--A Navaho elder
--A Navaho elder
Maybe on some of the slabs, but not on anything very steep. You can read all kinds of hold beta by where the chalk is. Sidepulls, underclimbing, thumb catches all show up in the chalk patterens.dhoyne wrote:I like climbing after it rains -- no chalk at all.
"There is no secret ingredient"
Po, the kung fu panda
Po, the kung fu panda
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lordjim_2001
- Posts: 1764
- Joined: Fri May 30, 2003 5:07 pm
Ever noticed that many times when you get to a crux that often the worst holds have the most chalk? Or all of the holds will have chalk? Or people will experiment with about 3 or 4 different grips before they decide. And then sometimes the best holds don't have any chalk on them. Ya never really know, but with the tick marks, well, that's different because then you do know.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."
--A Navaho elder
--A Navaho elder
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lordjim_2001
- Posts: 1764
- Joined: Fri May 30, 2003 5:07 pm
if a problem comes along
you must tick it
if your onsight skills aren't strong
you must tick it
so tick it
tick it good
go upward
get it sent
lower off
after you send it
you brush it
brush it good
on topic:
Michael Tryon (where are you?) on Roadside
Chocolate Waterfall... yummy
Me on Foxfire
Steve at Stone Mt.
Sometimes it's good to get up early - J-Tree January 2003
me on the Lost Coast, northern Cali
you must tick it
if your onsight skills aren't strong
you must tick it
so tick it
tick it good
go upward
get it sent
lower off
after you send it
you brush it
brush it good
on topic:
Michael Tryon (where are you?) on Roadside
Chocolate Waterfall... yummy
Me on Foxfire
Steve at Stone Mt.
Sometimes it's good to get up early - J-Tree January 2003
me on the Lost Coast, northern Cali
[size=75]i may be weak, but i have bad technique[/size]