Climbing photo thread, volume 1

Other Crags, Aid Climbing, Bouldering, etc...
J-Rock
Posts: 1936
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 9:30 pm

Post by J-Rock »

Yeah, I think chalk on the holds definitely not the same things as tick marks. Tick marks are like a crutch (or aid) and it takes away from much of the experience for the next climber. It makes it feel more like a gym route with colored tape. I don't want to know where all of the sweet spots are on my onsight attempt. It will ruin the experience by dumbing down the route and eliminating the searching. Of course a route will feel much easier after it has been "wired" and tick marked. The chalk on the holds doesn't always show the "sweet spot" and it is not always obvious from below. Personally I think it is much more fun to find the good holds for myself (on the first go)... I guess I just have different ethical standards.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder
dhoyne
Posts: 1240
Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2003 5:47 pm

Post by dhoyne »

I like climbing after it rains -- no chalk at all. :wink:
Sarcasm is a tool the weak use to avoid confrontation. People with any balls just outright lie.

[quote="Meadows"]I try not to put it in my mouth now, but when I do, I hold it with just my lips.[/quote]
J-Rock
Posts: 1936
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 9:30 pm

Post by J-Rock »

Well, since Pigsteak is not here, then I will make a new ruling... I think that if you tick mark a route then you should automatically lower the difficulty by at least one letter grade since finding all of the right holds (on your first attempt) is part of it. :twisted:
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

dhoyne wrote:I like climbing after it rains -- no chalk at all. :wink:
Maybe on some of the slabs, but not on anything very steep. You can read all kinds of hold beta by where the chalk is. Sidepulls, underclimbing, thumb catches all show up in the chalk patterens.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
lordjim_2001
Posts: 1764
Joined: Fri May 30, 2003 5:07 pm

Post by lordjim_2001 »

Less talk, more pictures.
Screw you guys. I'm going bowling.
J-Rock
Posts: 1936
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 9:30 pm

Post by J-Rock »

Ever noticed that many times when you get to a crux that often the worst holds have the most chalk? Or all of the holds will have chalk? Or people will experiment with about 3 or 4 different grips before they decide. And then sometimes the best holds don't have any chalk on them. Ya never really know, but with the tick marks, well, that's different because then you do know.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder
lordjim_2001
Posts: 1764
Joined: Fri May 30, 2003 5:07 pm

Post by lordjim_2001 »

And since I said that I'll back it up with action. Dial up users are warned:

Me in South Mountain Park, Phoenix AZ, in Janurary.
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Dean on the 3 pocket problem at Clack
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sirtoots on a fun slab at Clack
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Hopefully I'll have more next week.
Screw you guys. I'm going bowling.
JB
Posts: 1228
Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2003 8:36 pm

Post by JB »

if a problem comes along
you must tick it
if your onsight skills aren't strong
you must tick it

so tick it
tick it good

go upward
get it sent

lower off
after you send it

you brush it
brush it good

on topic:

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Michael Tryon (where are you?) on Roadside

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Chocolate Waterfall... yummy

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Me on Foxfire

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Steve at Stone Mt.

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Sometimes it's good to get up early - J-Tree January 2003

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me on the Lost Coast, northern Cali
[size=75]i may be weak, but i have bad technique[/size]
Paul3eb
Posts: 2445
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2003 1:49 am

Post by Paul3eb »

first time on andromeda strain i noticed that the hand jams were ticked.. the hand jams were ticked!!! that's going a bit far..

by the way, great pics, jb. the headless climber is particularly inspiring ;)
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins
Huggybone
Posts: 976
Joined: Tue Nov 05, 2002 12:08 am

Post by Huggybone »

I just love it when I GIANT jug, that you couldn't miss if you were blind, has a 4 inch scrape for a tic mark. Who needs something that big?
"Before enlightenment, chop wood, carry water. After enlightenment, chop wood, carry water."
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