Stop me if you've heard this one, I need 12a suggestions.

Post by **Gaar** » Mon May 02, 2005 10:00 pm

Scar Tissue is the easiest 12a in the red, probably the steepest too!

Post by **Wes** » Mon May 02, 2005 10:45 pm

Check your grip is good, as are buddha hole and ethics. Bare Metal is also a good one, but a bit harder then some.

Post by **J-Rock** » Mon May 02, 2005 10:46 pm

What about Ro? Or wait, is that thing really an 11d?

Anyway, for me "Hippocrite" felt easy for the grade and "Too Many Puppies" felt hard for the grade. "Go Easy Billy Clyde" and "Till the Cows Come Home", and "The Happy Fisherman" are also good.

Here are four of my favorites: shameless spray...

"Expresso" is a really easy 12a at Muir. It is basically a V4 boulder problem to a 5.9 jughaul.

"Immaculate Deception" (12a) is a V4 boulder problem to a 5.11 arete, to a 5.10 jug haul.

"Manifest Destiny" (my favorite 12a at the Red) is a 5.11 to a V4 boulder problem out a roof to a 5.10 jug haul.

"Buddha Slept" (12a mixed) is a V4 boulder problem start to a 5.9 crack to a V2 fingercrack move near the top and the thing is about 100 feet tall.

Post by **Sco Bro** » Wed May 04, 2005 2:53 pm

Well that gives me ten or so 12a's to work on, that should keep me busy for the next decade or so. Wes, you climb too hard, Bare Metal Teen as a good low end 12a? A bit harder? I've always heard that was one of the harder 12a's, if not the hardest, in the Red. You trying to sandbag me?

Post by **Wes** » Wed May 04, 2005 4:24 pm

Sco Bro, Bare Metal is kinda tough (took me a few tries), but not as hard as chainsaw. Besides, now that you did a 5.12, you should be picking training routes that will get you stronger, not trying to pad your tick list with soft 12a's.

Post by **Stewy911** » Wed May 04, 2005 4:29 pm

Too many puppies is crazy hard for me at the top. I can;t clip that last bolt because I can;t levitate (scobro on the other hand is like David Blaine, mo fo can levitate and fight off giant jumping gorilla spiders!) Definately a cool route and great arete climbing. I wish that underclinmb was still there at the top so you could run to it and clip the bolt.

Post by **SCIN** » Wed May 04, 2005 5:08 pm

Check out Mama Benson at The Darkside and Nicorette at Military.

Post by **SikMonkey** » Wed May 04, 2005 5:59 pm

Nicorette is one of my all time favorite routes.

Mj

Post by **Andrew** » Wed May 04, 2005 7:10 pm

Both are good suggestion

Post by **t bone** » Thu May 05, 2005 4:37 am

The Gift.