diggum wrote:I've yet to take a lead fall. I'm scared ta death to try to lead something I know I will fall on. That's a major obstacle in my progress & I'm not sure how to get past it.
When you get it figured out let me know, I have the same problem. I think I'm just a wimp.
Karla was fearless and often climbed with HUGE run outs that were scary to watch. Then her first lead fall resulted in a broken ankle. Now instead of falling she yells, "TAKE". I reply, "NO". Then she says, "TAKE, I'm serious! NOW!". Next I usually reply, "Just go for it! I've got you!".
Finally she downclimbs...
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."
diggum wrote:major obstacle in my progress & I'm not sure how to get past it.
When I started leading, I think there were two things that helped me most. One, I was strong enough to get above the first few bolts (i.e. above groundfall danger) with no trouble. Second, I was resolved to climb until muscle failure. That might not make much sense, but when you do this, it's almost a relief to fall because you get to rest. Whenever I feel shaky, I just concentrate on getting to the next bolt and not worry about the rest. As you learn to read the rock, this will translate well into the stance-to-stance style of trad climbing. Don't place head gear and if you have trouble trusting bolt placements, it might be hard to learn to trust gear placements!
Keep plugging Petey, like anything it takes time and experience. I remember, very well, the first time I went above the bolt. It was Lord of the Flies, 5.9. My buddy led the first couple bolts, was pumped out, I volunteered. All was cool and then I was bolt level, fear crept in, then I got a couple inches above the bolt and I crapped my pants.
Now, a few years later, it's just a funny memory and I reserve the right to crap my pants on harder grades. The most important thing is to have fun, really.
once you get above a bolt you need to except the fact that you could fall and just push yourself til you have to fall. you are the one putting urself in that position so except what you are doing and go for it. <-stew's words of wisdom!
Who Me? I gotta hitch hike god damn 18 miles to get a god damn beer......that's bullshit.
Here is a good piece of advice...
don't get too hung up on "leading" and "taking lead falls". Folks treat this like a red badge of courage and some sacred rite of passage.
The bolts and gear are merely a means to an end- the physical movement of climbing. Leading/ clipping bolts are only an arbitrary convention. Clipping all of those bolts interrupt the flow of the climbing and are an artificial addition to the experience.
Climbing without concern for the fall is the purest form of the sport (I think). To that end, toproping is where it is at (with a few bolts back clipped for safety and preventing swinging).
Leading is a thrill and a cool head game, but for a beginner it can be a pitfall that gets too much attention.
As for sucking dick, you suck one guys dick and everyone thinks your a fag... right Ho?
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
