5.13a/b suggestions

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 11:51 pm

yeah dude, check out cutthroat. i think it's the classic entrance to 5.13.

Post by **Spoonman** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 12:46 am

Matt ........the size of a hold is not really that subjective. The holds in question are the smallest on any of the real popular lighter 13's. The right crimp is very positive, but if you work it more than twice in a day expect blood blisters in the middle of your tips. The left crimper sucks in the summer (90% humidity), yet I found it to be very managable in the fall. I think this section of rock is the best in the gorge, yet would not suggest it as Wes's first 13. (whom i know something about.)

Hoofmaker is pretty good too, early crux then enduro pump!

Post by **KenJo** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 1:25 am

Cosmic Sausage at the Lode. Classique entrance to the world of 13s.

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 1:53 am

oh yeah! how could i forget. cosmic sausage wes. cosmic sausage.

Post by **mcrib** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 4:56 am

Snooker is maybe the worst choice, althougth sarcasim is choice. The force at darkside is good condition wise but bouldery along with everything else at that cliff. I'm in agreement Convicted/ Like I know.

Post by **allah** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 5:09 am

Horatio Felacio wrote:yeah dude, check out cutthroat. i think it's the classic entrance to 5.13.

That thing is only 12d and 13a if you are shorter than 5'3

GO get on Second Nature you will love the moves down low on that route. the GOlden touch isnt to bad either. you should actually go to the Lode and do a bunch of the route on the undertow wall and get some milage in on the steep hard 12s. if you go and do tuna town, resserection, high hard one and Team wilson, then you will do your first 13 real fast and not make it a long drawn out project. but I wouldnt recomend Table or Convicted, you dont want to be like every other chuffer out there and do one of those as your first 13.

Post by **kafish2** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 5:11 am

for some reason golden touch appeals to me, i think it has more to do with jsut being psyched on it after seeing so many people on it. id say go with what attracts you more than what you think you should be doing.

Post by J » Fri Apr 29, 2005 10:23 am

easiest madness cave route other than 40 is Flour Power (or Flower Power).

Post by **SCIN** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 2:32 pm

Snooker is endurance as well with no move harder than V2-V3 Wes but it's not a .13. Hell, fuck the .13 thing and just go do 8-Ball and Snooker. They're two of the best lines.
Don't bother with the Second Nature thing if you're not looking for a tough boulder problem which it sounds like you aren't. It has a pretty tough problem near the bottom.

Post by **MattG** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 5:23 pm

Matt ........the size of a hold is not really that subjective. The holds in question are the smallest on any of the real popular lighter 13's. The right crimp is very positive, but if you work it more than twice in a day expect blood blisters in the middle of your tips. The left crimper sucks in the summer (90% humidity), yet I found it to be very managable in the fall. I think this section of rock is the best in the gorge, yet would not suggest it as Wes's first 13. (whom i know something about.)

soooo.....doesn't the 90% humidity effect ALL of the 5.13's at the red in the summer, or is it only table?? no matter which one of these suggested routes you try in those conditions, it will suck when it's that greesy. aaaah kentucky in the summer. so lovely.
so again, i suggest table and every other route at the red in that range. it's hard to pick a 'bad' one really.