5.13a/b suggestions

Post by **Wes** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 5:00 pm

So, I am looking for a route to start working for my first 13. There are so many in the online guidebook, that I was hoping for some more advice.

I cannot crank out v7/8 moves, so nothing to powerfull. Other then that, I would like something that would be good as a training route and something that would be OK to work on this spring/summer. I was kinda thinking about Table, Appalaction Spring, or something at the lode. Purgatory looks kinda cool as well. What is the easiest madness cave route, movewise, not nessasarry linking it all up?

wanna be hardperson,
Wes

Post by **gneiss** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 5:25 pm

convicted

Post by **Paul3eb** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 5:35 pm

i have no personal experience wes but maybe find some stuff out about the force, .13a dark side. pretty much my only reason for bringing that one up is because it's at the dark side and that might work out a little better for summer conditions. there's also straight outta compton and plenty of other good stuff.. or so i hear.. i desperately want to go there so if you want some catches on stuff out there, i'm your man

Post by **SCIN** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 6:16 pm

Skin Boat. It's a pure endurance haul with only a V3 move at most.

Post by **MattG** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 8:11 pm

Table direct. It's V4/5ish off the ground to jugs, then huge bass mouth rest, V3ish second crux, huge rest once you get into the black rock section, then pretty easy to top. Plus it's beautiful.....but I think I remember it getting mid-day sun. You'll be good to go dude, no worries.

Post by **Spoonman** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 8:36 pm

Table direct is totally classic, but the holds are small and the left hand crimper is very slopey. In the summer it is a lot harder than fall. If you work out the original in the summer, you can then get the direct pretty easy in the fall.

All of the above are great........might add the Legend

Post by **ATLdude** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 9:02 pm

crime time

Post by **MattG** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 9:25 pm

but the holds are small and the left hand crimper is very slopey

that's subjective - depends on what your opinion of a 'small' or 'slopey' hold is i guess. i'll put it this way - all the holds are good on that route. some might be small, but they are finger buckets at worst.

Post by **J-Rock** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 9:36 pm

What about "50 Bucks", "Prometheus Unbound", or one of the 5.13's at the Solarium?

Post by **Wes** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 10:53 pm

gneiss wrote:convicted

Isn't that 12c now with the kneebar? Or did the SCEC rule that invalid?

Cool, thanks for the suggestions, I will do some more recon over the next couple weeks. What about snooker and cut throat? Those are super sweet looking lines.

J-Rock, I need to check out muir again pretty soon for sure.