Trip Report: little long but hopefully not too boring

[Lateralus]

Arrived Friday night at Lago Linda after 10hrs on the road.

Saturday
Woke up to amazing spring morning in the Red, headed to Drive By
which we realized was too hot for morning climbing. So we went somewhere
Shady-- Shady Grove of course. The highligt of that day was meeting
the NEW RIVER GIRLS, a not so close second was meeting Sunshine, just kidding
man, cuz you are the man. These rad chicks were on a no guy road trip
and they even had matching T-shirts with nick names on the back.
The women cranked hard and were really cool and funny, if you run into
them, be sure and ask "Snake Bite" about her nick name. Some good sends
that day but not by me I'm probably in the worst climbing shape that I've
been in for about 10 years. I've been unable to train very hard the last
2 seasons because of tendonitis in my elbow and shoulder,
accepting that was key to having a good time, especially when you can't finish
a route that you onsited 2 years earlier. Pizza was good.

Sunday
Drive By again, a little later in the day this time. Saw the New River
Girls again and met Wes. Nice meeting you man, I should have recognized you at
Shady Grove the day before, with your puppies that you saved (one cranky, one happy). You seemed to be climbing
quite well for 4th day on! We did Fire and Brimstone for the first time, just outstanding and
a must do. A lot of people were throwing themselves on Primus Noctum and were getting owned. Along
comes a women who gets up to the business and does no fewer than 3 dynos without even
hesitating (fairly sporty route if you aren't familiar) and sends. Turns out it is Michelle!
The most exciting climb of the day for sure and very nice to meet you Artsay!

Monday
Rest Day after watching my also very out of shape bud almost send Far From God before leaving for home.
Lot's of wild flowers in the Red, some I recognized, some I did not. Usually come in
the fall so this was quite a treat, as I am a bit of a wildflower enthusiast. Did some yoga and some running
at Lago Linda and basically just relaxed and enjoyed the tranquility. Buffalo Burger at Mark's was great.

Tuesday
Torrent (empty) , got crushed on 12 wall, ouch.
Climbed a few new 10's left of the outhouse that were really good, get on those if you haven't,
think they are called it's alive and reanimator?
Good job on those lines Sunshine!

Wednesday
Roadside, (empty) standard stuff, nothing really worth mentioning, except just more classic sandstone
pulling. Pizza was good

Thursday
Rest Day with more reading, yoga, running and wild flower scoping, getting a little bummed though cuz
the trip is almost over. The best partof that day was visiting with Linda and her husband Doug. Doug is an
incredible woodcrafter and he had made a very nice rifle out of tiger eye maple.
I joked with him that I wanted him to build me a guitar using the same wood. Linda said, OH you play guitar?
"Yes I do", I said a little hesitantly. She hurried upstairs and came down with an old guitar case. I kind of
rolled my eyes internally, as I assumed this would be interesting as I had been in this situation before.
Someone has a crappy guitar sitting in their attic and they want you to play it like Anders Segovia.
I'm sure my eyes must have come right out of there sockets, when I opened it up to find a 1953 Martin in almsot
mint condition sitting there, where the crappy old piece of junk was supposed to be. Hot Damn, probably a $3-4000
guitar right there and oh did it sing. No Anders Segovia, but I think my Flamenco was good enough for them as
they wanted me to keep playing.

Friday
Solar Collector (empty), did Bhuda hole for the first time, it was fun but not your classic sustained
Red route, seemed way way easier than Ethics Police. We Weren't psyched on anything else at SC so we went to
what I assume to be a very new crag past Shady Grove and before Purgatory. I think Sunshine told us it was
called Inner Circle. Just picked a route
and hopped on it, (second one from left) felt about 11b or so and was very high quality. Will definitely go back for
the other 3-4 routes there next fall. The entrance to Purgatory through the little arch was one of the cooler
entrances to a crag I've seen, the routes looked pretty cool there but most were out of our league I think,
good job on that place Allah. A giant storm moved in, tore the awning off my buddy's camper and rained hard,
we knew then that we should have done a few more routes.

Saturday
Needless to say we left a few days earlier than planned,heard it snowed on Sunday.
It was great to meet some of you from the site. Hopefully, we'll be back in the fall.

[Crankmas]

nice trip report, was the Martin a dreadnaught?

[kentuckysarah]

If you're the guy that I'm thinking you are, thanks for being my stick clip at Shady Grove.

Nice trip report

[allah]

Glad you had a good time, too bad the weather totally sucked for your last weekend there. all we did were watch movies and play scrabble for the most part of the weekend. you guys should have joined us. But anyways sounds like you had a golod trip see you in the fall peace out homeys

[allah]

Oh and there were a few 11s Left of the crack. That are of really good quality. and everything else had draws on it so you still could have gotten on anything you guys wanted too

[Lateralus]

crankmas, no it was a smaller fingerstyle guitar, not sure of the model--

kentuckysarah, that was you trying your heart out on the 10d maybe? I don't think i helped you with the stick clip it was my friend maybe.

allah, you must have showed up late Friday as we wanted to come over and talk to you about Inner Circle and Purgatory, oh and porn of course, but we didn't see you when we drove by after dinner. We would have gotten on the 11s but I thought they hadn't been sent yet or something, so we went back to inner circle

[Meadows]

Friday
Solar Collector (empty), did Bhuda hole for the first time, it was fun but not your classic sustained
Red route, seemed way way easier than Ethics Police.

Do you think that is because of the rests? Or do you think the moves are easier? I plan to get on it for the first time tomorrow.

[Sunshine]

Meadows, it's because it is a three pitch climb.
Pitch 1: Cool start to a cool "top out" into the Hueco.
Pitch 2: Crux pitch to no-hand rest.
Pitch 3: Cruise to the anchors on jugs.

[Wes]

Yep, that about sums it up. V1 boulder problem (with topout) to a rest to a v3 problem to a rest to easy 5.10 to the top. The one hard move is pretty tough, but not as hard as the move on stay the hand. I think it is way easier then ethics police. Very cool route though.

[Paul3eb]

besides being more challenging, i think ethics police is just a lot more fun.

congrats on the awesome trip sounds like fun. if i were a better person i wouldn't be so jealous