Easy Lead Routes

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
J-Rock
Posts: 1936
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 9:30 pm

Post by J-Rock »

Question: What is green, lies in a ditch, and is covered in cookie crumbs?

Answer: A Girl Scout that got hit by a car.

:twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :lol: :lol: :lol:
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder
Alan Evil
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Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2003 1:08 pm

Post by Alan Evil »

What is green, pink, and red and goes 90miles an hour?
A Girl Scout in a blender.
[size=75]You are as bad as Alan, and even he hits the mark sometimes. -charlie

"Not all conservatives are stupid, but most stupid people are conservative." - John Stuart Mill[/size]
Alan Evil
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Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2003 1:08 pm

Post by Alan Evil »

busty wrote:
Alan Evil wrote:Torrent just is NOT the place for a beginning leader to work on their lead head. But then again, I've never climbed any "boy scout" routes.
:? I thought I specifically asked for info about the boy scout "themed" routes only?

Anyway, thanks to everyone who posted info about these routes.
Oh, right, I forgot that when I was responding to the ORIGINAL poster I should have been responding to YOU instead. What was I thinking? Hey, let's send this beginning leader to Torrent so he can learn how to fall and spend a day being frustrated. Even the "French" climbs with their big, strange eyebolts are tough for the grade.
[size=75]You are as bad as Alan, and even he hits the mark sometimes. -charlie

"Not all conservatives are stupid, but most stupid people are conservative." - John Stuart Mill[/size]
busty
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Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2003 1:52 pm

Post by busty »

Go back and read what I first posted about Torrent. I didn't suggest it, I asked whether anyone knew anything about these climbs which are rated from 5.5 to 5.9 in the online guide. Obviously, you nothing about the routes I mentioned (as you admitted in your post), so you really can't honestly say Torrent isn't the place for beginners can you?
I'm an experienced woman; I've been around... well, alright, I might not've been around, but I've been... nearby.
~ Mary Richards (Mary Tyler Moore Show)
chriss
Posts: 354
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2003 11:02 am

Post by chriss »

Alan Evil wrote: Even the "French" climbs with their big, strange eyebolts are tough for the grade.
Not really. There just not fun. Though the one to the right with a bolt every three feet might be a good beginner route.
Alan Evil
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Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2003 1:08 pm

Post by Alan Evil »

Yeah. I guess when a route is sucky and you just want to get it over with it feels harder.

I still think that little wall at Muir is a great place for a beginner to learn. Those short 5.8's are great for confidence building, that 5.7 route is tremendous for first leads... and it's real purty up in thar. I wish I were there right now.
[size=75]You are as bad as Alan, and even he hits the mark sometimes. -charlie

"Not all conservatives are stupid, but most stupid people are conservative." - John Stuart Mill[/size]
dipsi
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Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 9:54 pm

Post by dipsi »

Me too....with a whole draw! :shock: :? :( :x :lol: :lol:
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Sco Bro
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 6:16 pm

Post by Sco Bro »

Pistol Ridge: 5.7, 5.8, 5.9, 10a. It's a Wonderful Life (5.9) is probably my favorite 5.9, it's very different from most RRG sport routes. While you're there you can get on Chem Studs (10.a) it's only 30 feet or so and four bolts. Warm up on the 5.7 and 5.8. Make sure you finger tighten the anchors on the 5.7, they can get a little loose. Bring a stick clip.

At the Great Wall in Muir Valley there are two 5.8's, a 5.9-.

Fantasia: Lord of the Flies (5.9), Pogue Ethics 5.10whatever.

Torrent: Wadcutter (5.9+), Tourist Trap (5.9) and beside Tourist Trap is Rest Assured (5.10a).

If you have a good stick clip you can clip your way up a climb when you can't do the move or just get scared. This will let you try harder climbs. For a six pack of imported beer of my choice I'll be your rope gun for a day.
lordjim_2001
Posts: 1764
Joined: Fri May 30, 2003 5:07 pm

Post by lordjim_2001 »

FYI, It's a Wonderful Life is 5.9+. Remember that RRG ratings go 5.9, 5.10a, 5.9+.

Sco Bro is right though it's very interesting. I'm looking forward to getting on it again soon.
Screw you guys. I'm going bowling.
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