Easy Lead Routes

Post by **Wes** » Tue Apr 19, 2005 6:39 pm

pawilkes wrote:i don't understand how people think sunshine and moonbeam are good lines. i thought they were choss piles of aqward move with no flow to them at all. i should take that back, i only got on sunshine which i was told was a better line than moonbeam and made up my mind that i had no desire to get on moonbeam.

Sunshine has a killer flow, if you use the right holds. The bottom half feels like a really good v0 highball boulder problem to me.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Tue Apr 19, 2005 6:43 pm

paul3eb wrote:please stay away from brother stair.. if it remains vacant for long enough, we can issue a petition to have it blown off the rock. thank you

You are my hero.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Tue Apr 19, 2005 7:22 pm

Merrick, that was mean to say Drop the Anchor is fun... That thing blows more than a whore with a crack habit.

Post by **Wes** » Tue Apr 19, 2005 7:26 pm

Sandy wrote:Merrick, that was mean to say Drop the Anchor is fun... That thing blows more than a whore with a crack habit.

I think it is pretty cool. Well defined crux (unusual for the grade), and the top is cool stemming. Maybe a bit heady if you are just starting into the 8's and 9's though.

Post by **merrick** » Tue Apr 19, 2005 7:37 pm

some of us like cheap crack whore blow jobs........i mean routes like drop the anchor.

Post by **peteypablo** » Tue Apr 19, 2005 9:10 pm

Thanks everyone, i will definately give sunshine and moonbeam a try, so if you find some booty half way up please mail to Richmond, no but i appreciate the suggestions and i will have to agree with paul about brother stair, not a fan of it, i will also try the other recommended routes.
Thanks -Pete

Post by **ReachHigh** » Wed Apr 20, 2005 1:54 pm

Ascentionist wrote:Manic Impression is a good first 5.10.

Chimp is too. Get on Put Me in the Zoo at the Zoo, low crux, well-protected.

Funkadelic next to it was my First 5.10 lead, it feels more like 5.8 if your >6'

Post by **strum** » Wed Apr 20, 2005 2:26 pm

Post by **steep4me** » Wed Apr 20, 2005 7:20 pm

pogue ethics at phantasia is supposedly 10a, but actually 5.9. very fun with a little well-protected crux about 1/2 way up. Then 5.6 climbing to the top.

Sunshine and Moonbeam are fun (only an opinion)

Post by **busty** » Thu Apr 21, 2005 1:15 am

What about the routes at Torrent with the Boy Scout names? Are these ok routes for beginning sport leading? Are these even open to everyone? - I vaguely remember a post recommending people get permission for these.