Learning to climb trad safely

[kirker]

For somone who wants to climb trad, but wants to learn to do it safely. Where might that person take classes or pick up the assistants of a seasoned vetern.
I've lead a few climbs at the Red, but on no grades greater than 58 and only becouse I would feel comfortable back climbing.

[L K Day]

Of course you could always hire a guide, and tell them what you'd like to learn. Problem is you have to find one who is noted for their teaching skills. Some are just rope guns, not what you want.

Hook up with someone who is known for their protection skills and is willing to let you tag along. Ask them to "sew up" some pitches while you follow and clean. As you clean, remove, then replace the pieces as good as you found them. Think about why the particular pieces were chosen for their placements, why they have runners or quickdraws on them, or not. Think about the security of the pieces and any rope drag that they may create. Finally, remove the pieces and move on. Ask lots of questions, why this?, why not that? Examine the belay carefully. Make sure you understand it. Make sure you understand how to build quality opposed anchors. Demonstrate this knowledge.

Ask your mentor to examine and criticize practice placements that you make along the base of the cliff. Finally pick very easy pitches to lead, ones with comfortable stances, rare in the gorge I know. Lead, and sew the mothers up. Have your mentor criticize ruthlesslyl Don't take it personally, just work hard, and get competent or get out.

[merrick]

that is excellent advice. the only thing i would add to that would be:

when following the leader and examining their placements, try to find a secure and comfortable stance to do it in. most easier trad climbs have good stances and when I am climbing stance to stance i feel like i am climbing well.

[L K Day]

And don't forget, the strategy of the lead is very important. Break the pitch down into sections, then taking one section at a time, climb from stance to stance, protect, chill, shake out, plan ahead and move on. Never let yourself hang in the middle of a crux, chalking up repeatedly until you burn off. Put in good pro, but husband your resources, and your strength. When climbing a sustained thin crack put in all the big pieces you can, conserve what you are most likely to run short of. When leading a wide crack always look for the small wire placements, 'cause once you use that big cam it's gone! Learn how to use every piece of gear at your disposal. That includes all the passive gear, because you don't want to find yourself flaming out on a pitch that just swallows hexes because you're so burdened by triplicates of every SLC ever made that upward progress is impossible.

[ReachHigh]

As for good places to climb easy trad with good stances, fortress has lots of routes < 5.7 .

Just to spray about myself I lead my first trad route yesterday at the New.

[L K Day]

Gullwing. I read your question too quickly. Call Mike Caldwell in Estes Park, CO. See if he's still guiding, and if he has any open spots in his schedule. He's a great person, a great climber, and a professional educator. And of course he's Tommy's dad.

Other really fine instructors would be Topher Donohue, and Craig Luben if they are available. Craig should be pretty easy to get in touch with. I'd try Colorado Mountain School as a contact for Topher.
If you need any help contacting these guys, let me know. They'd be worth every penny.

[dhoyne]

See if you can find an AMGA certified guide.

[merrick]

yea those AMGA guides are bad ass.

http://www.amga.com/guides/index.html

you can search by location as well as by guides.

[Guest]

speaking of learning to climb trad, Merrick, remember this? THREE YEARS AGO!

[merrick]

how can i forget, but was it only 3 years ago, not 4?...wow a lot can happen in a few years. and lots of money can be spent on gear.

it just goes to show you can go from american crack to levitation 29 in a little over a year if you are psyched.