First rock anchor tests in the Red

[pigsteak]

squeeze...naw, that's too easy..nevermind...

[TradMike]

a soloist died on Caver's

[Sunshine]

Statistics don't matter unless they happen to you.

[Kiribell]

Statistics are numerical generalizations, that’s all they have ever been, completely useless for forecasting an individual’s likelihood to become the “victim” of a statistic. However, I have observed that those who disregard statistics for at least a small measure of guidance more often then not fall victim to the statistic they see as useless.

[ynot]

spoken like a politician.

[Kiribell]

Ain't no reason to get insultin now there Bucko!..

[the lurkist]

Zeb and I are the only guys to have fallen on a bolt and had it pull. Zeb on Sand and I on Twinkie. Years ago. Sand is still missing the bolt, I think.
Neither of us were hurt. I shit my pants. I thought my rope had frayed down to strands and the last ones were going to snap. I told Tim Cornett to dirt me in a hurry.

[pigsteak]

rhunt, what is mike's last name, who snapped that bolt at Torrent? It is one of those routes that start over that 15 foot high ledge around the right side. it was the first bolt, and he decked, landing with his head and shoulders over the ledge.

[Wes]

I thought of a way to take a harder then factor one fall on a sport route in the red, but I think it only works on paper, not in real life:

First bolt at 7 feet.
2nd bolt at 15 feet.
Fall at just before 14 feet before clipping and without pulling slack.
Belayer takes in 2+ feet of rope as you are falling.
Thus you fall almost 14 feet on 12 feet of rope = ff of just over 1.
In real life rope strech would cause you to ground out, I think.

Wes

[J-Rock]

It's surprising how many routes at the Red are actually bolted this way and it probably would not be too difficult to find one.