Calypso III I think

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
hearn
Posts: 66
Joined: Fri Jul 16, 2004 9:32 pm

Post by hearn »

I think father and son at Global Village would be a good one. It'll take all the gear you can give it and the stances to place from are absolutely solid.
mazzystr
Posts: 97
Joined: Fri Oct 24, 2003 2:20 pm

Post by mazzystr »

try bedtime for bonzo, 5.6***
lordjim_2001
Posts: 1764
Joined: Fri May 30, 2003 5:07 pm

Post by lordjim_2001 »

I'm going to try the first pitch of Turrent as my first trad lead soon.

Now about that sandbag. If it wasn't for that boulder at the base I'd go for 5.2-3. It didn't seem that hard as my first crack climb on TR when I was with team ghetto.
Screw you guys. I'm going bowling.
dhoyne
Posts: 1240
Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2003 5:47 pm

Post by dhoyne »

diggum wrote:Scared the shit outta me. Bad first trad lead experience.

Hated it!! I need a fun, easy trad route to try to lead or I may give up on it. Any suggestions? Maybe linustgl will change his mind & get on something more fun too. :wink:
Try Motha @ Roadside. It's trad climbing for sport climbers. All face climbing, good stances, tons of places to put pro.
rickardodaniel
Posts: 59
Joined: Mon Sep 20, 2004 8:49 pm

Post by rickardodaniel »

I need a fun, easy trad route to try to lead or I may give up on it. Any suggestions?
Diggum; American Crack 5.4** Fortress Wall
linustgl
Posts: 110
Joined: Fri Jun 04, 2004 3:44 pm

Post by linustgl »

I made it up to where the crack flares, wasn't a bad route, The biggest piece I had at the time though was a #3 BD. Looking at the picture, it looks like I was only 10 feet from the top. But now ya'll got me thinking about that top section... hhuuummmmm....
hearn
Posts: 66
Joined: Fri Jul 16, 2004 9:32 pm

Post by hearn »

i heard Motha would take lots of gear, but it was all shitty pockets that you really wouldn't want to trust. Was this wrong? If so I think it'd be a little heady for one you your first leads.
dhoyne
Posts: 1240
Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2003 5:47 pm

Post by dhoyne »

There are tons of very good pockets. Excellent opportunity to try out those Metolius 3 cams or tri-cams.

You can place more gear than you can carry there's so many pockets.
Sarcasm is a tool the weak use to avoid confrontation. People with any balls just outright lie.

[quote="Meadows"]I try not to put it in my mouth now, but when I do, I hold it with just my lips.[/quote]
Caspian
Posts: 348
Joined: Mon May 05, 2003 9:28 pm

Post by Caspian »

I wouldn't want to fall on 95% of those pockets.
"how ironic....now he's blind after a life of enjoying being able to see."~Homer
strum
Posts: 296
Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2003 11:25 pm

Post by strum »

hehe, that crack, ahhhhhh, the memories, how many times have I been at Fortress and heard some one yelling

"5.2 MY ASS!!!" :lol:
4679 posts sine my last visit... I've been skiing too much
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