Calypso III I think

Post by **linustgl** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 5:42 pm

So my wife and I, after her having a baby, packed up, visited family there in KY, and came out to the RRG to do some light climbing. We had a vague map of Fortress Wall. I started climbing on a crack that looked easy enough, unfortunatly it ended up flaring a little bit bigger than I had pro for. Not wanting to run it out any, I downclimbed and have lived with that failure ever since. We are coming back out this summer, and I want to complete that climb. I found a pic of it (hopefully the link below works) and would like a bit of beta on it so I can come better prepared this time. What size pro do you need/how many? Length of rope reccommended etc. I know it's rated a 5.2 in the online guide, but hey, I didn't want to take a whipper with my wife on belay....

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/album_p ... ic_id=1282

Post by **mazzystr** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 5:46 pm

yup, thats what it is. =)

enjoy completing your project. while your at it, go up the second pitch, Where Lizards Dare 5.9+ ***

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... php?id=344

Post by **diggum** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:07 pm

i used a couple red cams (4's?)...can't remember much else. it's no 5.2...that's for sure.

there are many others more qualified to help than myself so i'll just zip it.

good luck & have fun!

Post by **linustgl** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:09 pm

I was wonder if the second pitch was included in the same name, guess not. Thanks.

I read that most people don't think it's rated 5.2, what would you say it is?

Post by **mazzystr** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:12 pm

the 2nd pitch is a different beast....

everything always seems harder on trad lead.

Post by **Crankmas** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:15 pm

5.3-5.4 whatever, uses alot of the face for holds on the left- you can do it, breath, etc-let me know when you've got time and I'll be happy to give you a belay while your wife gets some photos of you

Post by **Crankmas** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:17 pm

I'm obviously not talking about " Where Lizards Dare" but the 1st pitch Calypso III, though we could maybe swing leads if I'm drunk enough

Post by **Wes** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:20 pm

I think calypso III gets the sandbag of the year award for the 5.7 and under division.

One big piece, and I also place a cam in a horazontal right at the little roof after the wide section.

Wes

Post by **ReachHigh** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:25 pm

I like the face route next to calypso. The crack it self is nothing to write home about even though its no way a 5.2

Post by **diggum** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:30 pm

Scared the shit outta me. Bad first trad lead experience.

Hated it!! I need a fun, easy trad route to try to lead or I may give up on it. Any suggestions? Maybe linustgl will change his mind & get on something more fun too.