Sorry, have to spray.
I SUCKED on saturday. warmed up on back door to paris and then got on 'are the pies fresh?' AFTER the crux, I got scared and bailed, sniveling all the way down. I haddn't done that in three years. (I blame the heat)
Did a few laps on autumn and called it a day. Thought to myself, 'gee, I really have no buisness getting on 5.11's. What am I doing?'
Sunday, I went to the great wall, warmed up on the 5.7 and 5.8. Felt pretty good, so I got on 'touch of grey.' Onsighted it. Felt easy. Decided to get on 'Edge-a-sketch' and redpointed on my second attempt. Parhaps I should be excited cause I won't get extra toppings on my pizza, but it felt really cool doing 'hard' (for me) moves on the sharp end.
/end spray.
Spray
That's awesome, Pete! Good work!
I had a similar day like that on Saturday. Ray and I went to The Farside and did a few routes there before heading to the Solar Collector. First I got scared on a 10b and grabbed the draw to clip it (I haven't done that in a loooong time!), then I got shut down on an 11d move (Papa Love Jugs), and lastly at Solar Collector I sent Buddha Hole (11d/12a) first go hanging the draws, a route I had been on once a long time ago and fell all over.
I think we put a lot more emphasis on grade when we should put more on the style of a route. Buddha Hole suited my strengths and those routes you did suited yours. That's why we did well on them, not because we're *that* grade of a climber. There are just soooo many different styles of climbing and, honestly, I want to be good at all of them! Personally, I'm more inspired to go climb more routes with slopey clipping holds like that 10 and powerful bouldery stuff like Pappa Love Jugs than another Buddha Hole route that doesn't work me. The more I fail on something, the more I want it!
Congrats on your sharp end sends! And the next time you get on Are The Pies Fresh, may it flow seamlessly for you!
I had a similar day like that on Saturday. Ray and I went to The Farside and did a few routes there before heading to the Solar Collector. First I got scared on a 10b and grabbed the draw to clip it (I haven't done that in a loooong time!), then I got shut down on an 11d move (Papa Love Jugs), and lastly at Solar Collector I sent Buddha Hole (11d/12a) first go hanging the draws, a route I had been on once a long time ago and fell all over.
I think we put a lot more emphasis on grade when we should put more on the style of a route. Buddha Hole suited my strengths and those routes you did suited yours. That's why we did well on them, not because we're *that* grade of a climber. There are just soooo many different styles of climbing and, honestly, I want to be good at all of them! Personally, I'm more inspired to go climb more routes with slopey clipping holds like that 10 and powerful bouldery stuff like Pappa Love Jugs than another Buddha Hole route that doesn't work me. The more I fail on something, the more I want it!
Congrats on your sharp end sends! And the next time you get on Are The Pies Fresh, may it flow seamlessly for you!
Does he have a strange bear claw like appendage protruding from his neck? He kep petting it.
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Ascentionist
- Posts: 1081
- Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2005 9:23 pm
I spent the whole weekend revelling in my 2 year olds birthday. Three parties in two days. First was my wife's Cousin Eddie's birthday party (which was on my son's birthday, but not the Cousin-in-Law's actual birthday)
Then, later that day was my little boy's BD with my wife's family. Loooong day.
Sunday we had a party for my son and my nephew with my family.
I'm glad it'll be another year before we have to go through it again, but it was way more fun than climbing.
Then, later that day was my little boy's BD with my wife's family. Loooong day.
Sunday we had a party for my son and my nephew with my family.
I'm glad it'll be another year before we have to go through it again, but it was way more fun than climbing.
There is no TEAM in I
Friday we put up an easy sport route on a pinnacle at Muir. Saturday we put the drills down to focus on climbing our projects. We also did some exploring.
Spray section: J.J. put up an 85 foot sport route and bolted the entire thing on lead to gain access into the enormous arch across from the Great Wall. He even climbed through a couple of wet sections to do it. Rick thought that it looked like a fun route and he asked J.J. if he could lead it.
Anyway, after redpointing the route, J.J. informed Rick that it was the first free ascent. Rick thought that J.J. had already led the route. Pretty cool. Not too bad for an old geezer!
Sunday Karla and I bolted a route next to it and as Rick approached I lied and told him that I had already redpointed the route. Then after he redpointed it I congratulated him on the first free ascent. We tricked him. Well, I someday hope to climb as well when I am in my 60's!
Spray section: J.J. put up an 85 foot sport route and bolted the entire thing on lead to gain access into the enormous arch across from the Great Wall. He even climbed through a couple of wet sections to do it. Rick thought that it looked like a fun route and he asked J.J. if he could lead it.
Anyway, after redpointing the route, J.J. informed Rick that it was the first free ascent. Rick thought that J.J. had already led the route. Pretty cool. Not too bad for an old geezer!
Sunday Karla and I bolted a route next to it and as Rick approached I lied and told him that I had already redpointed the route. Then after he redpointed it I congratulated him on the first free ascent. We tricked him. Well, I someday hope to climb as well when I am in my 60's!
Last edited by J-Rock on Wed Apr 13, 2005 5:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."
--A Navaho elder
--A Navaho elder
Twicky Wabbits, those two!J-Rock wrote:
Spray section: J.J. put up an 85 foot sport route and bolted the entire thing on lead to gain access into the enormous arch across from the Great Wall. He even climbed through a couple of wet sections to do it. Rick thought that it looked like a fun route and he asked J.J. if he could lead it.
Anyway, after redpointing the route, J.J. informed Rick that it was the first free ascent. Rick thought that J.J. had already led the route. Pretty cool. Not too bad for an old geezer!
Sunday I bolted a route next to it and as Rick approached I lied and told him that I had already redpointed the route. Then after he redpointed it I congratulated him on the first free ascent. We tricked him. Well, I someday hope to climb as well when I am in my 60's!
J-Rock forgot to mention that these routes were only 9 and 10b. But, they are really spectacular routes and perfectly bolted. BIG thanks to J.J., J-Rock, and especially Squeezindlemon who drilled and bolted the 10b. I'll post some photos soon of Karla wrasslin' that big Bosche drill that must weigh as much as she does.
It's really great to have friends who build you a playground, then let you be the first on the monkey bars!
Rick
We cannot change the cards we are dealt, just how we play the hand. - Randy Pausch
None are so old as those who have outlived enthusiasm. - Henry David Thoreau
None are so old as those who have outlived enthusiasm. - Henry David Thoreau
I picked up some poison ivy as well... where the hell was it?ReachHigh wrote:Sunday was just a great day at Fortress, even if I was covered in poisin ivy, hungover, blisters on my feet and sunburn. Nothing but smiles.
Fortress was a griddle for sure. Drank a little too much beer after not drinking enough water working on dipsi's place Saturday and thought I was gonna hurl from the heat. Great day out, though.
[size=75]You are as bad as Alan, and even he hits the mark sometimes. -charlie
"Not all conservatives are stupid, but most stupid people are conservative." - John Stuart Mill[/size]
"Not all conservatives are stupid, but most stupid people are conservative." - John Stuart Mill[/size]
Okay, so too much beer and sun and dehydrated. Explains a lot. After I left Fortress, I tried to lead that French 8 at Torrent. I've TRd it clean a thousand times, but also came down whimpering like a baby. I suck! 
What I love about running is you can meditate while running. It's a peaceful place.
Sister Mary Elizabeth Lloyd, Runs marathons to raise money and awareness about children orphaned by AIDS
Sister Mary Elizabeth Lloyd, Runs marathons to raise money and awareness about children orphaned by AIDS
