Spring Crowds

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
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pigsteak
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Post by pigsteak »

wes, you should start a gumby booty list of all your finds....for a small fee, they can collect their goods..that'll score you some good karma points.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
neuroshock
Posts: 286
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2004 7:01 pm

Post by neuroshock »

Wes, can i have pointers on finding booty gear? only booty gear i've found in the last couple of years was a #6 stopper off of Bastille Crack in Eldo (took all of 15 seconds to get it out, too).

otherwise, i did clean a quicklink off of the 2nd bolt of Moonbeam last saturday when it was raining...was quite suprised to find it there.
J-Rock
Posts: 1936
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 9:30 pm

Post by J-Rock »

I have a full trad rack of booty gear collected over the years! 8)

Anyway, if any of you do see people taking down the fence and trampling the wildflowers at Muir then please stop them or at least inform them that their actions will probably not make Liz very happy. We might end up placing a few signs in some of the sensitive areas that should be protected. Don't worry though (there will NOT be any route closures).
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder
merrick
Posts: 1678
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 10:01 pm

Post by merrick »

check this one out:

we scored a fairly new #2 BD cam that was hanging on a bolt the other day. it took us awhile to suss what happened but this is what we think.

It was a 10c trad route at index(index is really stiff, so it feels 11a). There was one bolt at first the crux where there is no gear.

We imagined that some climber who was in over their head(route starts easy and gets progressively harder) got to the bolt and couldn't pull the roof mode. they then decided to lower off. following standard procedure they realized that they didn't want to lower off one bolt so they somehow got themselves offroute and placed the cam in a crappy placement with a long sling at a weird angle. while lowering their cam blew becuase their piece was crap(thus shockloading he bolt i imagine). i can't imagine how freaked they must of been, when their backup blew.

so we come walking down the trail and look up and see a #2 cam and full quickdraw hanging off a bolt. couldn't believe it. booty time.
Back from the Dead!
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pigsteak
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Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Post by pigsteak »

so how would it get attached to the bolt? from what I hear you saying..would it be more likely that they indeed rapped from it a bit higher on the route, and it held..then, a considerate second party went up the route, and hung the gear on the first bolt so that they could actually have it back? just a guess...
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
merrick
Posts: 1678
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 10:01 pm

Post by merrick »

no,

They connected the draw to the bolt. Placed the cam straight out left from the bolt. they connected the cam to the draw, thinking that it would equalize the bolt. but with the weird sideway pressure on the cam it just ripped out of the placement.

thus it was hanging on the draw that was attached to the bolt.

does that make sense

pretty gumby stuff
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pigsteak
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Post by pigsteak »

lol..I see..that is major gumby....bet the filled their drawers after that blew....
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
merrick
Posts: 1678
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 10:01 pm

Post by merrick »

totally, i would rather have seen the expression on their face than scored the cam, i already have 4 #2s(at least one of them is a booty cam)
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mazzystr
Posts: 97
Joined: Fri Oct 24, 2003 2:20 pm

Post by mazzystr »

totally, i would rather have seen the expression on their face than scored the cam,

then give me the cam and i can whip up some digital pictures of people wigging out when their gear blew.

we'll call it an even trade :twisted:

-Chris
Sunshine
Posts: 567
Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 5:20 pm

Post by Sunshine »

May as well forget about the iris patch. All the gumbie can see is shiney new bolts. Though I did just have a great idea that may work. Instead of a sign that reads don't trample the flowers, have it read, CAUTION POISONOUS SNAKES!
So now you'd better stop and rebuild all your ruins,
For peace and trust can win the day despite of all your losing-- Zep
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