Spring Crowds
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- Posts: 286
- Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2004 7:01 pm
Wes, can i have pointers on finding booty gear? only booty gear i've found in the last couple of years was a #6 stopper off of Bastille Crack in Eldo (took all of 15 seconds to get it out, too).
otherwise, i did clean a quicklink off of the 2nd bolt of Moonbeam last saturday when it was raining...was quite suprised to find it there.
otherwise, i did clean a quicklink off of the 2nd bolt of Moonbeam last saturday when it was raining...was quite suprised to find it there.
I have a full trad rack of booty gear collected over the years! 8)
Anyway, if any of you do see people taking down the fence and trampling the wildflowers at Muir then please stop them or at least inform them that their actions will probably not make Liz very happy. We might end up placing a few signs in some of the sensitive areas that should be protected. Don't worry though (there will NOT be any route closures).
Anyway, if any of you do see people taking down the fence and trampling the wildflowers at Muir then please stop them or at least inform them that their actions will probably not make Liz very happy. We might end up placing a few signs in some of the sensitive areas that should be protected. Don't worry though (there will NOT be any route closures).
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."
--A Navaho elder
--A Navaho elder
check this one out:
we scored a fairly new #2 BD cam that was hanging on a bolt the other day. it took us awhile to suss what happened but this is what we think.
It was a 10c trad route at index(index is really stiff, so it feels 11a). There was one bolt at first the crux where there is no gear.
We imagined that some climber who was in over their head(route starts easy and gets progressively harder) got to the bolt and couldn't pull the roof mode. they then decided to lower off. following standard procedure they realized that they didn't want to lower off one bolt so they somehow got themselves offroute and placed the cam in a crappy placement with a long sling at a weird angle. while lowering their cam blew becuase their piece was crap(thus shockloading he bolt i imagine). i can't imagine how freaked they must of been, when their backup blew.
so we come walking down the trail and look up and see a #2 cam and full quickdraw hanging off a bolt. couldn't believe it. booty time.
we scored a fairly new #2 BD cam that was hanging on a bolt the other day. it took us awhile to suss what happened but this is what we think.
It was a 10c trad route at index(index is really stiff, so it feels 11a). There was one bolt at first the crux where there is no gear.
We imagined that some climber who was in over their head(route starts easy and gets progressively harder) got to the bolt and couldn't pull the roof mode. they then decided to lower off. following standard procedure they realized that they didn't want to lower off one bolt so they somehow got themselves offroute and placed the cam in a crappy placement with a long sling at a weird angle. while lowering their cam blew becuase their piece was crap(thus shockloading he bolt i imagine). i can't imagine how freaked they must of been, when their backup blew.
so we come walking down the trail and look up and see a #2 cam and full quickdraw hanging off a bolt. couldn't believe it. booty time.
Back from the Dead!
so how would it get attached to the bolt? from what I hear you saying..would it be more likely that they indeed rapped from it a bit higher on the route, and it held..then, a considerate second party went up the route, and hung the gear on the first bolt so that they could actually have it back? just a guess...
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
no,
They connected the draw to the bolt. Placed the cam straight out left from the bolt. they connected the cam to the draw, thinking that it would equalize the bolt. but with the weird sideway pressure on the cam it just ripped out of the placement.
thus it was hanging on the draw that was attached to the bolt.
does that make sense
pretty gumby stuff
They connected the draw to the bolt. Placed the cam straight out left from the bolt. they connected the cam to the draw, thinking that it would equalize the bolt. but with the weird sideway pressure on the cam it just ripped out of the placement.
thus it was hanging on the draw that was attached to the bolt.
does that make sense
pretty gumby stuff
Back from the Dead!
May as well forget about the iris patch. All the gumbie can see is shiney new bolts. Though I did just have a great idea that may work. Instead of a sign that reads don't trample the flowers, have it read, CAUTION POISONOUS SNAKES!
So now you'd better stop and rebuild all your ruins,
For peace and trust can win the day despite of all your losing-- Zep
For peace and trust can win the day despite of all your losing-- Zep