Anchors atop FFD

Post by **Ascentionist** » Thu Mar 31, 2005 4:39 pm

I did too, and it was so freakin hot and humid that I vowed I would never do Minas Tirith without it again.

Post by JB » Thu Mar 31, 2005 4:52 pm

ummm, we did it on the same day... at the same time.

Post by **Ascentionist** » Thu Mar 31, 2005 4:56 pm

I know.

Post by **Sunshine** » Thu Mar 31, 2005 5:18 pm

WWWD? I will ask Warren about the use of anchors. Could we now have a moment of silence?

Post by **J-Rock** » Thu Mar 31, 2005 5:49 pm

JB wrote:i hate the cheapening of the sport as much as anyone... (especially after watching gumbies try to kill themselves at the gumby wall(rebel branch) in muir valley on wednesday) but it's a rough job to define something as slippery as ethics.

Dude, how does a couple of 5.8 sport routes cheapen the sport? What is the problem with a few easy routes for beginners to flail on? Not everybody starts climbing at a 5.11 level. Are you suggesting that it is poor ethics to have 5.7 or 5.8 sport routes? Would you rather gumbies climb on the 10's and 11's instead?

It is such elitist attitudes that cheapen the sport and leave a negative vibe on others more so than a few easy routes. It would be much more beneficial and safer for new climbers to lead a short well-bolted 5.8 to build their confidence and skills. Perhaps rather than criticizing them it would be better to offer some advice and encouragement.

Also, that wall is known as "The Bruisebrothers Wall" (not the Gumby Wall). I always thought that the Gumby Wall was at Roadside. And, there are definitely more 5.10 and 5.11 sport routes on the Bruisebrothers Wall then there are 5.7's and 5.8's.

Post by **Joel** » Thu Mar 31, 2005 5:58 pm

RRG needs more gumby routes. It gives newbies something to learn on that's within their range, takes pressure off the more popular routes, and keeps the gumbies out of sight of the snooty hard climbers who don't want to deal with them.

At Queen Creek Canyon I once proudly onsighted a 5.5 sport route. There's a lot of such routes out there. Why doesn't the Red have more easy stuff? It's not like the walls here don't offer any.

Post by **Ascentionist** » Thu Mar 31, 2005 6:01 pm

"Let the gumbies go to the New."

Have heard this too often by heartless hardmen. I live in Stanton. What sense would it make for me to drive to the New to learn to climb? Or someone that lives in the surrounding counties? Lexington?

Drive to the New. Great solution.

I have always agreed that the RRG needs more gumby routes. Like it or not, people are going to come to the Red to climb whether ther eare suitabel routes for them or not. Look at routes like Sunshine and Moonbeam that are notoriously tricky for the grade, yet for years they were the beginner routes at the Red. At least from a sport climbing viewpoint.

Post by JB » Thu Mar 31, 2005 6:10 pm

hey J-Rock. You read me wrong dude... it wasn't the wall i was griping about, but the poeple themselves. check your PMs. wow... now i remember why i don't post... people read me wrong.

Post by **J-Rock** » Thu Mar 31, 2005 6:15 pm

I understand now JB. Sorry about that. Thanks for the message too.

Post by **TradMike** » Thu Mar 31, 2005 7:58 pm

Those of you looking at the OR on Whitesides

The US Forest Service has announced its falcon closures again. As before, Big Lost Cove Cliffs, Shortoff Mountain, NC Wall, Whiterock Cliff, N Face of Looking Glass and Whitesides are affected. As always, the birds will be monitored to see if they have chicks and the ban will be lifted if they do not. EXCEPT: the NC Wall will be closed regardless of nesting activity until July 1st to give at least minimal protection to a threatened plant species, namely "Hudsonia Montana". There is a possibility that a pair may nest on Table Rock. The Forest Service should know by February. All closures will be posted, but even if the signs are removed by vandals, the closure will be enforced. Be forewarned! In the past, Table Rock SC is always closed this time of year and Moores Wall usually has a partial closure as well.