Trad def harder as far as grades go. I can go outside and run right up a 10b or c spoort climb but i klnow I cant go out and run up a 10b crack. I took me several goes to get tradisfaction and once I had it wired it still felt harder than a 10b sport route. Anyways its all subjective!
Hope everyone has a good weekend climbing if your going out
Mixed Ratings
Artsay, How many pitches of 5.11 crack do you do a week compared to 5.11 sport? If you lived in Moab, and climbed at Indian Creek every weekend, I have no doubt you would crush 5.11 cracks for a warm up and send 5.12 as easy as you send 5.12 sport now. I have seen people who can do 5.11 trad at the creek for a warm up get beat down on pulling pockets.
I will say that I think face (sport) climbing is more intuitive at first. But once you get over the learning curve for cracks and for placing gear, they are about the same. My redpoint level was the same for both for a long time, and my On-sight leval is still the same for both. Onsighting Jack the Ripper felt about the same as the other couple 11c sport routes I have flashed/onsighted. It is just that we all mostly climb sport at the higher grades around here because there just isn't as much higher end trad.
Wes
I will say that I think face (sport) climbing is more intuitive at first. But once you get over the learning curve for cracks and for placing gear, they are about the same. My redpoint level was the same for both for a long time, and my On-sight leval is still the same for both. Onsighting Jack the Ripper felt about the same as the other couple 11c sport routes I have flashed/onsighted. It is just that we all mostly climb sport at the higher grades around here because there just isn't as much higher end trad.
Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"
Po, the kung fu panda
Po, the kung fu panda
Actually I've never climbed a 5.9 crack and a 5.9 sport route on the same day which is why I asked. Seems as if it's either sport or trad climbing on a given day out. As much as I try to compare the two in my head I just can't come up with an answer. Part of me wants to say the crack is "easier" than a smooth face because you can lock a fist or fingers. But a 5.9 sport route would have good feet-only rests and multiple choices of holds at most points... I guess I just need to climb more.Wes wrote:Yes, they are. If you think the crack is harder, you just don't know how to climb cracks.Alan Evil wrote:So a 5.9 crack is equally as difficult as a 5.9 face climb?
Wes
[size=75]You are as bad as Alan, and even he hits the mark sometimes. -charlie
"Not all conservatives are stupid, but most stupid people are conservative." - John Stuart Mill[/size]
"Not all conservatives are stupid, but most stupid people are conservative." - John Stuart Mill[/size]
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lordjim_2001
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