Bedtime Anchor

Post by **Steve** » Mon Oct 07, 2002 1:18 am

Someone has done it again, left a poorly rigged anchor up on Bedtime for Bonzo. First it was the overkill chains that destroyed the rock, then someone took the webbing that hung over the lip allowing for a nice clean rope pull, and now some short pieces of webbing and a piddly little quick link make for the decent anchor. This stuff is so short you have to use the ole heave ho to get your rope down and it has cut a nice rope groove in the rock (which is about as unsightly as the chain groove). While the chain system was beefy, it destroyed the rock. The shorter lengths of webbing make it easier to get on rappel, but don't help when it comes time to pull the rope. If I dont' beat you to it first, the next time someone goes up to Fortress to do Bedtime take a few long lenghts of webbing and a couple of beefy rap rings/quick links and rig that rap anchor right.

Post by **Legion** » Mon Oct 07, 2002 1:29 am

What a pain in the ass. I hated those enourmous chains up there, but I am not a fan of nylon, either. It deteriorates and has to be replaced more frequently, not to mention it looks even more ugly than those old chains. Is there a more permanent solution? Perhaps replace the chains with something that isn't absolute overkill and do it in such a manner as to not tear up the rock? The rap is a waste of time for most of the people that go up there anyway. By the time they get done cocking around with the rap they might as well just walk off. It's only a couple hundred feet.

Post by **Steve** » Mon Oct 07, 2002 4:54 pm

Walking off would be the best option, but if that anchor is decent you could rap straight to the ground by the time you could walk down and set up the rap atop the first pitch.

Post by **ynot** » Mon Oct 07, 2002 10:16 pm

It needs to be gumby proofed.

Post by **Legion** » Mon Oct 07, 2002 11:18 pm

The whole route can be decended without rappelling. You can do a 4th class/5.easy scramble to get down from the first pitch.
I am not advocating that everyone should do this. BTFB gets alot of gumby traffic and as long as they are not causing a traffic jam they might as well get the practice with rappelling a route. I do believe that a quality rappel anchor needs to exist on this route because it is a little idealistic to think that those same gumby climbers are going to have the know-how to maintain or replace the rap anchor.

Post by **captain static** » Tue Oct 08, 2002 5:59 pm

This is a tough situation to say exactly what would be best. One option would be to build a formal trail down from the top, put up signage directing people to the trail, and completely remove the anchors? I don't know if there would be any good way to engineer the anchors at that location to prevent gouging when the rope is pulled. This may sound crazy but I suppose you could bolt some carpet or other wear resistant material over the area where the rope runs?

Post by JR » Tue Oct 08, 2002 6:22 pm

That does sound crazy.

Post by **Steve** » Thu Oct 10, 2002 2:07 am

Gumby proof?!??! Climbing isn't a Disney theme park attraction, if you are out there climbing you better know how to get down one way or the other.

Bolt some carpet or wear resistant material?!!?? Come on now that is going as overboard as the chains that were up there.

I still don't see the problem with running slings with a couple of rap rings on them just over the lip. That was the way the anchor was rigged for years and it worked. Webbing is cheap and can be easily replaced so don't give me that 'it wears out over time' response that I always hear. Sure it was a bit akward to get onto rappel from above, but this is rock climbing...sometimes it ain't easy. Noting the walk off directions in a guidebook wouldn't be bad, but I don't think there needs to be a marked trail up there.

Post by **Legion** » Thu Oct 10, 2002 2:19 am

The webbing will work fine until some gumby determines that the rap slings are looking a little worn out and decides to do us all the favor of replacing them with godonlyknowswhat. Then we are back to square one again.

Post by **Steve** » Thu Oct 10, 2002 4:17 pm

Thus getting down in the manner that we deam safe is up to the individual climber.