safety-loose bolts etc.

Post by **camptonite** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 9:32 pm

my two cents- ask the person who orginally bolted the route (porter) if you can move the anchors. This would take away from the route's personality.

Post by **maine** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 10:52 pm

Its a shame that the new generation of climbers feel it neccessary to lower a route to their level by changing a classic line like this.

While Porters bolts probably do need replaced moving their location to make a route easier is LAME!!!!

Should you then change the grade? NOt saying you should but

Post by **Wes** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 11:12 pm

They aren't being moved to make the route *easier* (didn't the orginal line go stright up from the last bolt, rather then off to the right), but because that is the best place for the new anchors. The new *might* be 6 or so inches from the others, and in an over/under setup. You could probably clip from the big heal hook/foot cam that you could also rest on, which would make any traverse pretty chill anyway.

Are all bolt placement somehow hallowed? Even the 12 year old time bombs? Did porter or anyone ever place a bolt that could have been a little bit better a few inches to the left, right, up, or down? Is it really all that big of a deal to move them around a little when re-bolting?

Wes

Post by **Toad** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 11:48 pm

Just be sure to save the bolts you are removing. I propose that you place them in a reliquary at Miguels so that we may worship them and rember better days past.

I don't get it. You bitches bitch when the bolts and anchors are old and possibly not safe, but you also bitch when they are replaced. Maybe one of you could devise a sure-fire way to cleanly remove the old bolt and put a new bolt in the same hole.

Post by **the lurkist** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 11:54 pm

So, how do you know if a climber is well and happy? He/she is bitching about something.
amen

Post by **J-Rock** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 11:56 pm

I guess this means that most of us here are pretty healthy.

Post by **ynot** » Thu Mar 17, 2005 12:18 am

Bolts are the best and the worst thing that ever happened to climbing.

Post by **Sunshine** » Thu Mar 17, 2005 2:16 am

Trying to think of a verse that rhymes!

Post by **Toad** » Thu Mar 17, 2005 3:14 am

Bolts are the best and the worst thing that ever happened to climbing.
With them you can safely pull moves that would bust open your hymen.
Bolt a crack and people be crying
Dark City, Dark City were Sunshine is hiding.

Post by **Sunshine** » Thu Mar 17, 2005 3:18 am

It has to be metal!