Roller 'biners

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
Post Reply
Alan Evil
Posts: 3592
Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2003 1:08 pm

Roller 'biners

Post by Alan Evil »

A friend gave Jeff a pair of those roller beaners and we used them on the anchors this weekend on some sport routes at Torrent. I think they're pretty cool. Seemed as if they gave a smooth catch on TR falls and very smooth lowering (from the pov of a belayer). I couldn't tell anything different about them while on TR but that's because, I'm proud to say, I only ended up on the rope once per climb (except for slipping off the first move once, but that's starting over) with warning each time due to frozen fingers. And I'll admit that I may have been a little pumped out as well. :)

Anyone else used these?
[size=75]You are as bad as Alan, and even he hits the mark sometimes. -charlie

"Not all conservatives are stupid, but most stupid people are conservative." - John Stuart Mill[/size]
Top
haas
Posts: 694
Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 5:06 pm

Post by haas »

They're too expensive for my taste
Top
krazykid
Posts: 92
Joined: Thu Oct 16, 2003 2:51 am

Re: Roller 'biners

Post by krazykid »

Alan Evil wrote:A friend gave Jeff a pair of those roller beaners

want to introduce me to your friend? I could use a pair :D
Top
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

Seams kinda like something to use if you were setting up a lot of tr's for a big group. I have seen normal lockers pretty well groved after just one day of boy scouts and static lines. But, since we all know TR'ing isn't really climbing, they would be kinda out of place and un-needed on most lead racks.

Oh, and Torrent is a dumb place to go when it is cold out. Even if it is cloudy, still go to the usually sunny crags, and the radation still hits the rock and warms it somewhat.

Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
Top
KD
Posts: 3155
Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 1:21 am

Post by KD »

i have seen them - they look like they are designed to reduce rope drag - but a good ol' long sling does that pretty well. kinda neat idea though and dmm makes bomber quality stuff.
Top
KenJo
Posts: 41
Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2004 5:18 am

Post by KenJo »

dmm rules. the roller is good for places like the obed where drag is an issue. otherwise....3 ft runners.
Top
squeezindlemmon
Posts: 1452
Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2004 7:02 pm

Post by squeezindlemmon »

We've carried those things with us on multi-pitch climbs but don't really feel much of a difference when placed to 'reduce drag'. :|
Emancipate yourself from mental slavery. None but ourselves can free our mind. ~Bob Marley
Top
Joel
Posts: 41
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 5:53 pm

Post by Joel »

I figure a certain amount of rope drag is a good thing.

I once saw a guy deck from 30 feet. The belayer wasn't paying attention, the climber fell with nothing to slow him down except rope drag in the anchors and in the belay device. And he walked away from it. Would have been uglier than that if there was less rope drag.
Top
User avatar
Jeff
Posts: 2859
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 6:40 pm

Post by Jeff »

Wes wrote:.Oh, and Torrent is a dumb place to go when it is cold out. Even if it is cloudy, still go to the usually sunny crags, and the radation still hits the rock and warms it somewhat.

Wes
Ah, the infinate wisdom....
Top
KD
Posts: 3155
Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 1:21 am

Post by KD »

Joel wrote:I figure a certain amount of rope drag is a good thing.

I once saw a guy deck from 30 feet. The belayer wasn't paying attention, the climber fell with nothing to slow him down except rope drag in the anchors and in the belay device. And he walked away from it. Would have been uglier than that if there was less rope drag.

I suppose a little friction from rope drag might not be to bad then, but i,ve almost fallen because there was so much drag i had trouble moving. That's when i started learning how to use long slings:)
Top
Post Reply

Return to “Sport”