usable range?

Post by **Johnny** » Fri Jan 31, 2003 7:28 pm

I guess the question is are you really having a problem with a size crack that cams don't fit? If I have all sizes on my rack of either Friends or Camelots, I've never had a problem. And yes, I'll cam those babies in tight if I feel like it and no, I've never lost a cam doing that (recovered a few from others though). That whole "overcamming" theory is bullshit, especially in sandstone.

Post by **t bone** » Fri Jan 31, 2003 7:30 pm

did you all know one of black diamonds product design engineers is joe skrivan was from cincy and has spent alot of time climbing in the red before he started working for bd.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Fri Jan 31, 2003 7:31 pm

tell him Johnny!

Seems to me for someone who has allegedly climbed 1000's of routes to be a pretty stupid freakin question... if it fits, plug it. 'nuff said.

Oh it's so good to finally be feeling better! I know y'all missed me around here!!

Post by **john e aragon** » Fri Jan 31, 2003 7:36 pm

it is a miracle, someone who climbs responds. Thanks, Johnny, friends cover ranges camalots do not.overcamming doesn't effect the holding power (like tipping it out) but it is a pain in the ass to deal with it. it is also not necessary if more sizes of cams covered greater ranges.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Fri Jan 31, 2003 8:02 pm

john e aragon wrote:Thanks, Johnny, for making me feel at least a little less like an ass and taking me seriously, friends cover ranges camalots do not.

"friends cover ranges camalots do not" LIKE DUH!

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Fri Jan 31, 2003 8:04 pm

if your cam doesn't fit, why don't you just keep climbing till something does? i'm sure with the 1000's of routes you've done and the 5 or 6 different states you've climbed in that wouldn't be a problem. how many routes have you backed off of in your enormous career because you couldn't get a cam to fit? by the way when you say "5 or 6 states" does that mean the physiographic boundaries we recognize here in the U.S.A. or mental states from drugs, alcohol, etc?

Post by **john e aragon** » Sat Feb 08, 2003 2:33 pm

i guess my question is over the head of the average climber. i am sorry i have trouble that way sometimes, i forget that most climbers barely know what to do with a cam. from now on i will try to ask quetions that the average climber can answer. so, what color chalk bag should i wear in the summer in the red?

Post by **ynot** » Sat Feb 08, 2003 10:41 pm

There aren't any gaps in covered sizes with metolious cams.there are more of them in a set the same sizes as Camalots. They traded the range for holding power.They also stop at about the same size as a Camalot #4,so you need the offwidth sizes in Camalots.It makes for a bigger heavier rack.It's all trade offs for whatever you want.The extra weight is becoming a problem.My harness wants to fall off over my butt.I tried a gear sling but it sucks in offwiths and chimneys.I am beggining to see why everyone uses Camalots.

Post by **Legion** » Sat Feb 08, 2003 11:49 pm

john there is a chart out there on the internet somewhere that shows the usable range of virtually every cam available in the US... I believe that Clyde Soles created it. Anyway, you should be able to Google for it or find a link to it at tradgirl. Sorry I don't have the URL handy.

Post by **Legion** » Sat Feb 08, 2003 11:53 pm

whoops john sorry I see you don't care about the cams anymore.
The correct chalkbag color is red. It compliments the green foilage of the RRG during the summer months quite nicely.