How much harder can you TR
I'm a real pansy...I toprope 3 number grades higher than I lead which isn't much. Oh well, I'm old so I can get away with it! Save the insults, obviously I can kick my ownself!
What I love about running is you can meditate while running. It's a peaceful place.
Sister Mary Elizabeth Lloyd, Runs marathons to raise money and awareness about children orphaned by AIDS
Sister Mary Elizabeth Lloyd, Runs marathons to raise money and awareness about children orphaned by AIDS
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I'm in total shock that someone could lead harder than they TR. And there are so many of you! I guess it takes a lot of years climbing to get to that level.
I have to totally put it out of my head that I am even leading so I don't flip out. I lack the confidence right now. Oh & skill.
I have to totally put it out of my head that I am even leading so I don't flip out. I lack the confidence right now. Oh & skill.
Holding onto anger is like grasping a hot coal with the intent of throwing it at someone else; you are the one who gets burned. - Buddha
When I am leading, I tend to have a sharper focus. And, when you are trying to send (rp or onsight) something at a high level for you, you are even more focused. So, when I get on TR, I just don't try as hard or something. And like others have said, TR'ing steep routes really is a pain in the ass. Once you get into the leading groove, it really isn't such a big deal. Best days are when everyone is leading and everyone is taking the anchor falls on the warmups, then taking big air on projects. The vibe is sooo cool. You really feel like you can climb harder.
Wes
Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"
Po, the kung fu panda
Po, the kung fu panda
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Once you get the feel for leading it's easier since you don't have the rope in your face all the time. I think of myself as soloing with a bit of TR every now and then when I clip. You just sort of embrace that feeling of being above the bolt and accept the possiblity of a fall. Something about trusting the process. Seems Artsay was saying something about that... My biggest issues with leading really hard stuff are freaking out when I'm trying to clip off a pumped grip or getting to those "stopper" moves that are harder to work on lead.
Ticking is gym climbing outdoors.
I'm not sure about all this but I've noticed this about my climbing:
When on lead I don't get the same kind of adrenellin (sp?) jolt when I slip. I actually find those moments oddly calming because if I fall it'll be big... it's strange. When on toprope it's more of a "fuck! I slipped" while on lead it's "stay on... keep moving." I'm trying to get my head around this difference because it seems so backwards.
Oh, and I still haven't crossed the threshold where a loose toprope gets in the way of my climbing so I climb on toprope a number or two above what I lead... but that means I can TR a lowgrade sport 5.10 clean. I still fall off a 5.10b repeatedly.
When on lead I don't get the same kind of adrenellin (sp?) jolt when I slip. I actually find those moments oddly calming because if I fall it'll be big... it's strange. When on toprope it's more of a "fuck! I slipped" while on lead it's "stay on... keep moving." I'm trying to get my head around this difference because it seems so backwards.
Oh, and I still haven't crossed the threshold where a loose toprope gets in the way of my climbing so I climb on toprope a number or two above what I lead... but that means I can TR a lowgrade sport 5.10 clean. I still fall off a 5.10b repeatedly.
[size=75]You are as bad as Alan, and even he hits the mark sometimes. -charlie
"Not all conservatives are stupid, but most stupid people are conservative." - John Stuart Mill[/size]
"Not all conservatives are stupid, but most stupid people are conservative." - John Stuart Mill[/size]