Learning how to hold on longer

[pigsteak]

i'm with wes....I bet I can't even do 10 pull ups..but easy 12 is....well, easy. mental toughness comes in to play somewhere...

[SikMonkey]

laps on "easy" stuff is a waste of time....however, climbing routes which are easier than your redpoints..that works wonders. ya gotta make the muscles work to see improvement...and then lots of rest.

Yep, what he said. Oh, and beatin' off like a damn spider monkey can't hurt either! ...damn I REALLY shouldn't post when I have been drinking.

Mj

[KD]

I get on my backyard wall and hang on/work as many different slopers as i can until failure. Slopers work all of the hand muscles wholistically as opposed to - say crimps or pockets that isolate different hand muscles/tendone. This workout is less prone to injury and translates well to the rock later.

[marathonmedic]

This guy has the wrong idea about this. Yes, it's the AnT (anaerobic threshold) that's causing the pump, but normal training isn't going to fix it. Traditionally when you talk about AnT you're talking about someone running up a hill until they can't do it anymore. You can see this in yourself when you do run up a gradual hill that gets steep. When you suddenly notice that you're panting instead of just breathing hard, that's your AnT. This happens when your muscles are needing more oxygen than the blood can deliver and they have to switch to lactic acid production to get the extra energy they need. Aerobic training will increase capillary density as well as general fitness so your body can transport more oxygen and work harder before it passes that magic mark.

The problem with climbing is that the muscles aren't using more oxygen than the blood can deliver. The problem is that when you contract a muscle it will compress the capillaries (which are very low pressure and compress easily) and you actually stop blood flow to that muscle tissue. Now the muscle has to make lactic acid to get anything done. It's not an issue when you're running because your muscles are alternating contracting and relaxing which increases blood flow. Instead, try to do a wall sit (lean against the wall with your knees bent and thighs parallel to the ground) for 60 seconds. You'll really get the feel for what's happening in your forearms this way.

I'm thinking the only way to increase the time that you can hold on is to increase strength so that you don't have to use each muscle fiber as much. Spreading out the load will decrease the amount of oxygen each cell needs and keep it out of lactic acid production.

Just my 2 cents.

[Caspian]

So this is something I have been thinking about lately.

What you think about climbing many routes fairly quickly...short rests...perhaps not "completely" recoved. As opposed to fewer, but harder routes, and completely resting until completely fresh?

[marathonmedic]

So this is something I have been thinking about lately.

What you think about climbing many routes fairly quickly...short rests...perhaps not "completely" recoved. As opposed to fewer, but harder routes, and completely resting until completely fresh?

Many routes quickly sort of smells like aerobic/endurance training, but the harder stuff with recovery (i.e. bouldering) sounds more like strength training.

[bcrock]

The problem is that when you contract a muscle it will compress the capillaries (which are very low pressure and compress easily) and you actually stop blood flow to that muscle tissue. Now the muscle has to make lactic acid to get anything done.

This is right in line with my basic understanding of the pump. I have found that the next best thing to climbing a lot is the rubber doughnut. It has helped me get past several thresholds in my climbing career. In order for the rubber doughnut to have an effect I have to do a lot of reps on a regular basis.

[Caspian]

Many routes quickly sort of smells like aerobic/endurance training, but the harder stuff with recovery (i.e. bouldering) sounds more like strength training.

But what will provide harder sends on routes typical to the red?

So people seem to be saying, that you can work on endurance or power....but what if you want sustained power? I guess what I am getting at is....does one think it is better to work endurance and stength seperately in some sort of a phase cycle as spoonman suggested, or try to work endurance while climbing at you limit?

[Andrew]

I have found that it is best just to climb and have fun. I have tried to train, but just end up getting bored and I lose motivation. If it happens that I am having fun climbing long pumpy routes then I guess that I am working endurance. If I find that I am having fun bouldering then I guess I am training power. Currnently I have been training alot of power during the week and alot of endurance on the weekends, but thats just because that is what I am having fun doing.

[pawilkes]

i'd have to agree with andrew. I love climbing and pushing myself on whatever the environment best offers. I know i'll be lacking some endurance when i get back to the red but I got it in the first place just by climbing alot there. training makes climbing seem like work, not fun.