Grip strength

Post by **Crankmas** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 5:42 pm

sorry I know it was a cheap shot, the only condyle I was aware of is the one for the mandible? (lower jaw) site of your TMJ probs, but it is probably a common joint type found in other parts of the body-could look it up but that would spoil the mystery, maybe the doc will let on

Post by **SCGC** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 6:38 pm

I spend an extra 20 minutes in the john..

Post by **Roentgen Ray** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 10:43 pm

We got condyles all over the place. The top of the condyles are epi-condyles. Pretty much any knobby projection can be a condyle. What the lurkmeister speaks of is the elbow knobbiness. Elbow anatomy: There is the olecranon, the part of your elbow that you place on the table when you rest your head in your hands. Then, on the inside (medial), and outside (lateral), are condyles/epicondyles, part of the humerus. The epicondyles act as anchors for the common flexor tendon (medial) and the common extensor tendon (lateral). When these get inflammed, either the tendon or the bone, it's called lateral or medial epicondylitis. Not a true -itis, as an -itis typically refers to infection, but everyone calls it -itis anyway. Personally, I get more medial epicondylitis as my climbing style tends to be more flexion than extension based.

Post by **SCGC** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 11:23 pm

Can we all say CONDYLS? RR..I think you need to be captive again..

Post by **marathonmedic** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 11:37 pm

AAAHHHHHHHH!! ANATOMY! *running away into the night screaming*

KD wrote:i get on my home wall and dead hang on a sloper for as long as i can - then switch hands in rotations (feet on small jibs) this has helped my hand strength wholistically (open hand, crimp, etc). I do the same with pinch holds. Rob Butsch showed me this drill a few years back - it helps and transfers well to real rock.

Sounds cool. What angle wall are you doing this on?

Post by **the lurkist** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 11:43 pm

I mentioned lateral epicondyle injury (the common attachments of the finger and wrist extensors) b/c someone mentioned the captains of crush grip strength enhancing exercise of picking up two 25# plates (smooth sides out). This is very hard and requires a shitload of shear ability to increase pressure with the tips (normal force). It is a sure fire way to rip these extensor tendon attachments. Chris Martin tired this 25# plate trick and had raging lat epicondylitis for a year and was seeing a hand therapist for months.

Post by **marathonmedic** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 11:48 pm

My biomechanics are a bit rusty. Would it matter which way your wrist was rotated? i.e. pronated, supinated, etc.

Post by KD » Fri Feb 25, 2005 1:29 am

marathonmedic wrote:AAAHHHHHHHH!! ANATOMY! *running away into the night screaming*

KD wrote:i get on my home wall and dead hang on a sloper for as long as i can - then switch hands in rotations (feet on small jibs) this has helped my hand strength wholistically (open hand, crimp, etc). I do the same with pinch holds. Rob Butsch showed me this drill a few years back - it helps and transfers well to real rock.
Sounds cool. What angle wall are you doing this on?

30 degrees - its a good burn if you only have time for a short workout too.

Post by **the lurkist** » Fri Feb 25, 2005 1:45 am

If you are asking in regard to pinching plates, I don't think it would matter.