Recommendations for Classic gear routes in the Red

Post by **J-Rock** » Wed Feb 23, 2005 1:23 am

I starting drooling and got an erection while bushwhacking when I first saw "Tradisfaction". Unfortunately I was all alone and did not have any gear with me (or a partner). I took some photos and gazed at them longingly all week until I couldn't take it anymore and called in sick so that I could go down to the Red to climb it. (The anchors were bolted on lead). Anyway, some of my other favorites at the Red are:

Broken Chicken Wing
Rite of Passage
Cruising Lane
Where Lizards Dare
Jim's Dihedral
Vector Trouble
Perforator
Doppler Effect
Return of Geoff Beene
Ascentuality
South Side of the Sky
Kentucky Waterfall
Windy Corner

+ I'm sure I missed many many more.... (The Red does have many great trad routes).

P.S. I'm surprised nobody mentioned "Inhibitor" yet.

Also, if you are at the Stadium and climb Tradisfaction there are now a few additions. Loren added a powerful fingertip layback finish to the left that goes at 11a and shares anchors with Tradisfaction. Kneebar put up a superhard looking steep crack to the right named "In a Pinch" that goes at 5.11d. He also added an arching wide crack called "No Bones About It " that is graded at 5.10. Continuing to the right... "Ascentuality" is a wicked cool 5.11a mixed route and should definitely not be missed. Technical face climbing past three bolts to a gorgeous overhanging orange dihedral to a set of anchors under a roof. Enjoy!

Post by **pigsteak** » Wed Feb 23, 2005 3:01 am

trad routes at the Red are an excuse to not really climb. skip the BS about "killer" trad and "beautiful" lines....

Post by **rockstar** » Wed Feb 23, 2005 3:03 am

i don't believe you. i mean you've done roadside attraction.

Post by **Hoppinbig** » Wed Feb 23, 2005 5:26 pm

Thanks for the recommendations guys.

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Wed Feb 23, 2005 6:06 pm

hey hoppin! you should definitely check out the doppler effect and good times at skybridge ridge! they are so beautiful and sweet!

Post by **Roentgen Ray** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 4:40 am

Trad climbing is for wiener wanna bees and and 5.10 climbers.

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 5:27 am

did roadside only because a girl promised I'd see her tatties.

which reminds me of a wonderful story. about 6 years ago, a group of us came from Illinois, and met up with friends from Ohio. AnUrologist friend of mine was on the trip, and told me this story...

He was leading two female friends of mine (from Ohio) up bedtime for bonzo. one girl, having a bit of trad experience, decided to lead the last pitch. she tehn belyed up the second girl.My doc friend was last...well, when he pulled over the lip, there sat 4 woman sunbathing topless...I shit you not...two other ladies had been first to the top, and the two with my friend joined them for a rousing round of "headlight hunter"...I knew all 4 women, but had never been lucky enough to share in the joy my friend experienced...

As a married man, and about 10 years their senior, he said he wasn't sure where to look, or what to say, but they seemed oblivious to a man in their midst....

sadly, none of these ladies climb anymore.

Post by **J-Rock** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 2:41 pm

Man, that reminds me about a story from when I climbed "Andromeda Strain" several years ago. I don't think I can repeat it here, but it was a really good story... Anyway, I was told that I would receive a "reward" that night if I flashed the route.... I practically ran to the top of it. She kept her word too (much to the dismay of her "boyfriend").

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 5:01 pm

j rock...yours is better because you have first hand experience...is that where my girl was that night????

Post by **charlie** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 5:11 pm

Damn, I had pretty much given up on this thread but those stories warm my heart.