Fall or Body Weight

[J-Rock]

Right, but what would it be if there were several of those in a row? I'm just curioius because I don't know.

[Wes]

Actually, I think you can say a placement is A1, A2, or A3. Once you are at A3, then the distance between good peices comes into play. Thus, the "it is all a3 until you fall" quote.

So, if you had that placement right above a slammer peice, it might be a2. If you had that same type of thing for 100 feet - then maybe a4? Aid ratings a even stranger the the v-scale...

Wes

[J-Rock]

Thanks Wes. I thought it might be something like that.

[pigsteak]

aid ratings should be done away with, and just climb brah.

[rockstar]

it's all a1 til you fall is the quote. which has a good point you never know what MIGHT hold a fall. check out supertopo big wall guide for a description of aid ratings.

[Wes]

I aways thought A1 was a bommer piece, like a cam, which could hold a fall for sure. A2 was a margial piece, like a cam with just two lobes in the rock, that might hold a fall. And A3 was body wieght only. Because if it is all just A1, then you never have to worry about blowing a piece.

Wes

[Alan Evil]

Heh heh. He said, "blow a piece," heh heh.

[rockstar]

a2 is a body weight piece or two above good gear. a3 is more marginal gear which may require more skill to place. a4/5 is more of the same.

[J-Rock]

Whenever I'm using hooks I always wonder if it will hold me or not. Often I am surprised how well they really work. Still it seems like a guessing game wondering if it will pop off or if the hold will break. I hate the sound of a hook popping off of a small edge or pocket. Then you go flying off the wall... and repeat the process all over again....

[TradMike]

Aid climbing is a big head game. You are in the zone the entire time while aiding. Kind of like real life chess with real penalties. But it can seem to take for ever to inch up the wall. Different and fun in it's own way.