Trad Climbing at the Red

Post by **CPower** » Sat Jan 25, 2003 6:40 pm

I'm planning a trip to the Red in March and would appreciate any info on
Trad climbing there.I don't know anyone who's been down there so I don't
know what to expect.I am a solid 5.8 leader who climbs mostly in New Hampshire and Up-state New York,any comparisons?

Post by **ynot** » Sun Jan 26, 2003 1:09 am

Lots of good trad here.It's sandstone. I have been working the 8 s for a year and havent done 1/4 of the 2 and 3 star routes.Maybe you can hookup with team Jedi.Check the weather icon up above before you make final plans.It could be rainy in march.

Post by **CPower** » Sun Jan 26, 2003 1:58 am

Thanks for the tip on the weather.We're pretty open to traveling elsewheres in the south if need be.The way our winter is shaping up in the
N.E. we won't be rock climbing until may

That just won't do!Do you guys find the sandstone reliable for holding leader falls?are nut placements
easy to get or is it a lot of jiggery-cammery for pro?my only experience with sandstone was in ut. and over protecting was common practice.Thanks again.

Post by **SCIN** » Sun Jan 26, 2003 3:02 am

Check out the guide if you need it:
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuideV2/

The trad here rocks.

Post by **dipsi** » Sun Jan 26, 2003 4:45 am

Team Jedi welcomes you!

Post by **tomdarch** » Fri Jan 31, 2003 8:27 pm

Don't be scared off by Autum's current 5.9- grade. I didn't think it was an issue of there being a 5.9 move, but rather that it's wiggy to get yourself to undercling/smear out under a flake, then throw for the top of the flake (and hope your feet don't cut!) It has been graded as a 5.8 in the past, if that helps. Great route. Check out:

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... php?id=120

It earns it's reputation as one of the best routes in the Red. Classic. Must do. (Also, the photo on the guide page above doesn't represent it as how I remember it - the photo makes it look harder than I remember!)

Post by **Jeff** » Fri Jan 31, 2003 8:48 pm

How does that photo make it look harder?

Post by **CPower** » Sat Feb 01, 2003 9:28 pm

Hey Tomdarch,Thanks for the tip,the Autumn crack looks great!I'm taking down any suggestions people have for routes so...
Also the guide is freakin amazing,I,ve already picked out the best crags
relative to my lead ability and have found way more STARRED routes than
I could possibly do in two weeks.Also starting AID climbing this year so if
anybody has good C1 or C2 climbs to do in the area,I'm all ears.In fact,
we,ll be bouldering and sport climbing too,so much to climb...

You guys are great,hope I can return the favor someday!

Post by **t bone** » Mon Feb 03, 2003 3:09 am

Autumn is one of the straight forward 5.9s in the red beware of the old school 5.8+ or 5.9+ routes they are a little harder.

Post by **CPower** » Mon Feb 03, 2003 8:26 pm

Yeah,we got a similar situation up here as well,lot's of sandbag 7's and
8's put up in the 40's by Weissner and friends.Does your local Guidebook
give first ascent names and dates?These can be good clues to a routes
comparative difficulty,when that doesn't work I fall back(sometimes litterally)on the Ol' "comin down" technique.I'm a seasoned chicken.Thanks
for the warning.

RRC Archives

Trad Climbing at the Red

Trad Climbing at the Red

Red River Trad

Trad in the red