redpoint vs. onsight

Other Crags, Aid Climbing, Bouldering, etc...

what's the letter grade difference between your hardest redpoint and hardest onsight?

same
9
15%
one
7
12%
two
12
20%
three
18
30%
four (full number)
12
20%
five
1
2%
more than five
1
2%
 
Total votes: 60

Paul3eb
Posts: 2445
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2003 1:49 am

redpoint vs. onsight

Post by Paul3eb »

please reply only if you have onsighted 10a or harder.. otherwise it'll mess with the results. for instance, hardest onsight at 9 and hardest send at 10b would translate to (sort of) a 6 letter grade difference when it's not really.. no offense or anything. i'm just curious about this for whatever reason..
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins
lordjim_2001
Posts: 1764
Joined: Fri May 30, 2003 5:07 pm

Post by lordjim_2001 »

Quick question, sport or trad or does it matter? Not that I can onsight a 10a....
Screw you guys. I'm going bowling.
Paul3eb
Posts: 2445
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2003 1:49 am

Post by Paul3eb »

doesn't matter, either one.. i wonder if there'd be a difference between the two..
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins
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pigsteak
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Post by pigsteak »

we need a disclaimer as well.I get the impression that many on here don't even go for redpoints...they aren't into projecting anything over their head....if they don't get it that day, 2 or 3 tries, they don't come back for a year...so they would skew the results.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
rhunt
Posts: 3202
Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 12:02 pm

Post by rhunt »

three for me. all the training books out there will tell you it is usually(for most average mortals) a difference of one number grade..if you onsite 11a you should be redpointing 12a..etc.
Last edited by rhunt on Fri Feb 11, 2005 1:13 am, edited 1 time in total.
Huggybone
Posts: 976
Joined: Tue Nov 05, 2002 12:08 am

Post by Huggybone »

None for me. While I projected last fall, my projects were only as hard as my onsights from previous years, when I was not interested in redpoints.
"Before enlightenment, chop wood, carry water. After enlightenment, chop wood, carry water."
krazykid
Posts: 92
Joined: Thu Oct 16, 2003 2:51 am

Post by krazykid »

four letters for me...
GWG
Posts: 840
Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 1:45 pm

Post by GWG »

all the training books out there will tell you it is usually(for most average mortals) a difference of one letter grade..if you onsite 11a you should be redpointing 12a..etc.
Isn't this example one NUMBER grade different and not one LETTER grade different?

So if the books do say one letter grade and you onsight 11a, you'd redpoint 11b, correct?

I got my hardest onsight the last time I went climbing and it happens to be the hardest route I've attempted. I guess I need to press myself more! :?
rhunt
Posts: 3202
Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 12:02 pm

Post by rhunt »

opps yep that's number not letter...
rockstar
Posts: 340
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 7:37 pm

Post by rockstar »

one for both sport and trad but i don't project really hard. i have lots of projects but i don't attack one relentlessly.
fuck the haters
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