Just as I am breaking outta the 5.10's, I choose all the soft routes as my first
5.11's. Whippingstocking,too
I think Dario is no harder than 10d. You ought to climb it, it's pretty cool.
To me, it might seem just a little more sustained than Jack in the Pulpit, but really not that much harder. I would say 11a, but I couldn't argue with 10d. At any rate, it is a really cool route.
Shedding off one more layer of skin
Keeping one step ahead of the persecutor within
I've climbed it a bunch. To me, it feels about as hard as Yada-Yada-Yada (Drive By) and Eye of the Needle (Funk Rock), both 11b's, though probably not as hard as Bandolier (11a). It's a tough call...
Get a rest about 3/4 of the way up, before heading right to the big fat flake. ...and be prepared for some serious 5.7 climbing after the flake to the anchors!
Jeff wrote:Get a rest about 3/4 of the way up, before heading right to the big fat flake. ...and be prepared for some serious 5.7 climbing after the flake to the anchors!
Are we talking some fake holding-on, standing-up 'rest' or are we talking real, sit-down, hands off rest (a la Fuzzy Undercling)?
Not sure what a fake holding on, standing up rest is, but just get comfortable with good feet and arms and hang straight armed for a while, shaking out, while you get your heart-rate and breath back down a bit.
There is not a no-hands rest on the route.
You ought to try the route though it's pretty cool. You can also stick-clip the second bolt before you even start climbing (or is it the third??). If you are so inclined.
...and be prepared for some serious 5.7 climbing after the flake to the anchors!