Don't toprope or lower from anchors!!!

[GWG]

Sheeez! I gave up golf to climb! All the rules I had to adhere to just to get onto the course wasn't worth it. Now it's getting almost as bad here.

Well, maybe not. This is a FAR CRY from country club golfing. I certainly don't miss that fake "It's so nice to see you" atmosphere when in fact what was being thought was "What can you do for me today?"

Climb, enjoy, climb some more!

[Wicked Tribe]

How about this...

If you are willing to replace worn hardware with high quality materials, then feel free to lower off the anchors. Hell, lower off with a diamond encrusted steel cable.

That's like saying, "If you're willing to buy a new car then just don't worry about changing the oil. Its wasteful and irresponsible. Top rope through your own gear which is far easier and MORE LIKELY to be replaced. Just because there are willing individuals out there does not necessarily mean that bad anchors are going to be replaced.

In RRG in the last few years a small group has been replacing bad anchors and bolts. This is to be applauded. But show your appreciation by preserving the good anchors that they put in.

And what excuse do you have for not doing it the right way?

[Toad]

That's like saying, "If you're willing to buy a new car then just don't worry about changing the oil.

No. It's like saying exactly what I said. Or, if you must, it's like borrowing a car for a long trip and getting the oil changed before you give it back.

[Lateralus]

Has anyone on this forum ever concidered taking up golf?


"have you ever tried to clean a steep climb on rapell"--


anyway if there's an anchor fund at the Red I'll contribute towards it cuz i will never clean a steep route on rapell

[marathonmedic]

This whole discussion is stupid. The solution is simple. Has anyone ever complained about the anchors at the lode (I hope not, I haven't been there yet.) wearing through or seeing bail biners on everything? Everybody just leave your draws on the anchors, preferably on all the bolts. That way you don't have to worry about rapping or lowering on the anchors. You guys get started and I'll be along in a little while.

[OZ]

Yeah. I've gotten a lot of booty when people do that stuff.

[andy_lemon]

"have you ever tried to clean a steep climb on rapell"--

Only a couple in the Red... Monkey Bars & Loosen Up. Other than that, Group Therapy, Psychotherapy, and several others you've probably never heard of in my area. The general idea of what I'm getting at, by not lowering/top roping through the anchors, should not be picked apart at such as rapping on steep climbs. As was brought up earlier, "This is so last week", and I did post last week in the other thread that steep climbs can be ommited from the point I'm trying to make. At least for the sake of arguement.

This is a FAR CRY from country club golfing. I certainly don't miss that fake "It's so nice to see you" atmosphere when in fact what was being thought was "What can you do for me today?"

Yeh, I know what you mean.

[marathonmedic]

Yeah. I've gotten a lot of booty when people do that stuff.

Dude! You should see the pile of booty a friend of mine brought back from the Motherlode.

[pigsteak]

uh andy,
ya better step back on those, my man. group therapy and psychotherapy are NOT, I repeat, are NOT steep routes. (He is alluding to the classic group therapy at Jackson falls, for those who care.) I am sorry of you think such, becasue you are in for a world of hurt when you get on truly steep routes. Both the routes you mentioned can be VERY easily cleaned on rappel. However, as you should have noted, what we call "tractor clips" have been installed on Group. Those suckers will last for another 20 years of lowering.

[andy_lemon]

Call it what you want Piggy, if it is overhanging then I consider it steep.

Webster says Steep = Having an almost vertical slope or pitch with a relatively higher gradient.

So, uh, Piggy... maybe you and the others should concider backing up on the definition of the word steep.