What do you tradheads think of this page?

Post by **everready** » Mon Jan 24, 2005 7:18 pm

Hi,

I was doing a bit of surfing and came across this page. It looks pretty good to me (and my very limited experience). The one thing that I don't understand is how it seems he contradicts himself describing the two point rope tie-in, picture #6. He says to tie a figure eight and clip it to the lowest piece. The picture has it clipped to the highest piece. Am I right or am I missing something?
Just how is one supposed to do all of that without falling off? Can it all be done using just one hand?

Thanks,
Al

Post by **overhung** » Mon Jan 24, 2005 7:20 pm

Well, we need the link.

Post by **everready** » Mon Jan 24, 2005 7:28 pm

Duh!!!!

Sorry, I'm at work and trying to be sly..

http://www.chauvinguides.com/Anchoring.PDF

Post by **diggum** » Mon Jan 24, 2005 7:53 pm

Stupidhead!

Post by **Danny** » Mon Jan 24, 2005 9:11 pm

You're right but for this anchor it could be done either way. For a very offset anchor it may be easier to put the figure eight on the lower piece and extend the clove hitch to the higher one. Unless you are on a big ledge you could clip yourself in with a sling while setting up the anchor.

Post by **ynot** » Tue Jan 25, 2005 4:21 am

The first thing you do upon reaching the spot where you will build an achor is hook yourself in. I gave it a read. It's a basic overview but it left out several things you should consider when building an anchor. John Longs anchor books will give you a better understanding of the same things and covers much more.

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Tue Jan 25, 2005 3:32 pm

this site is fucking AWESOME!

it reminds me of the anchor-building website: http://www.teletubbies.com/

Post by **Alan Evil** » Thu Jan 27, 2005 12:24 am

Post by **vic** » Thu Mar 03, 2005 6:08 am

You want protection, so as you climb you'll place a pro. Well, if you reach a point where you need to setup a belay system, same difference:
Place a pro or two and hook into a "quick" system.
Once hooked in, take your time, but here's what I recommend:
Stop, breathe, think, and then act. That way, you'll have taken an additional 20 seconds to think the whole anchor through before actually setting it up.
My advice, get a trad buddy - and get on multi-pitches. One of the prime destination to learn would be NC - if you can stand rain 2 days out of the 5 you'll be there.

Post by **dhoyne** » Thu Mar 03, 2005 3:09 pm

I like figure 7 where he shows how to use two broken biners with gates that don't close for an anchor.