Stepping up, freeing the old aid lines

Post by **coop** » Fri Jan 21, 2005 3:54 am

I was on Right On, Solid, and Far Out not too long ago and saw some chalk on it. Is anyone trying to free this thing? I don't know how you'd do that route without some fixed knife blades in it. Is that legit to use to free it?

How about any of the other old aid lines for that matter? I could see Refraction going if it wasn't soaking wet all the time and the only jug is full of muck. What about the pitch above Lizard's Dare or that roof above Suess is Dead? Any others out there that have potential to go free? Did those two lines at Funk Rock ever go? What about Bart's Aid Route? I'm just wondering what remaining test pieces still exsist for you hard traddies out there.

Post by **marathonmedic** » Fri Jan 21, 2005 4:32 am

I'm a bit confused, again. Why does Right On, Solid, and Far Out have a 5.8 rating if it's an aid route?

Post by **haas** » Fri Jan 21, 2005 5:25 am

It's an aid route to the top of the crack, then it's a 5.8 traverse over to the anchors above King Me. If someone tries to free it, they should add some anchors at the top of the crack.

Post by **captain static** » Fri Jan 21, 2005 5:42 am

To add permanent anchors you would first need to have approval from the Forest Service.

Post by **ynot** » Fri Jan 21, 2005 7:34 am

I have noticed a certain hard core climber buying all the little cams that come up for sale cheap.Ive been wondering if he's freeing or aiding or both.

Post by **rockstar** » Fri Jan 21, 2005 1:34 pm

why couldn't you use the knifeblade? for pro that is, you can't pull on fixed gear.

Post by **TradMike** » Fri Jan 21, 2005 2:45 pm

The final aid pitch of Where Lizard's Dare? I would be very impressed if anyone frees that. Potentially doable though. You would just have to get past the start. I saw somebody at the Phoenix rock gym that was cruising up v8 after v8. He did one unrated route that required something like a 15ft dyno to the tiniest of holds. Reminded me of a gargoyle coming to life. I think he could have worked it. Strongest climber I have ever witnessed.

Post by **Crankmas** » Fri Jan 21, 2005 3:32 pm

the position alone would make it incredible

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Fri Jan 21, 2005 3:44 pm

i've only looked at it once before, but i remember thinking it looked pretty dumpy...hard, but definitely not very pretty. it looked hard for maybe 10 ft. up to a ledge, then like 10 or 12 feet out a roof.

Post by **jimmydean** » Fri Jan 21, 2005 9:54 pm

But, it looks doable.
Just felt like some harmless spray to start the year off right.
I finally decided to join your insane asylum, and stir up some buffalo excrement.